
Recipe below: Duck and Cabbage Soup with Flageolets and Marsala
Cabbage. It’s not wildly inspiring. Scrolling through my blog recipes, and I’ve done a thousand of them, I find only two cabbage recipes, both for Italianized versions of cole slaw. I’m a little surprised by that. Cabbage is a good thing. I love all the other farty, gassy vegetables. Why have I been ignoring cabbage? I’ve immediately realized this was a huge waste on my part. Cabbage has potential for beauty. So I’ve gone out and bought myself a big savoy cabbage, sat it on my kitchen counter, and stared at it for a long time. My creative head didn’t churn with excitement, but I figured, well, there’s always soup.

I originally planned on a cannellini bean, cabbage, and sausage–type soup, an Italian winter classic that nobody in my family ever made, but I didn’t have cannellini beans. I did have a bag of Rancho Gordo flageolets, lovely light-green beans that hold their shape nicely after cooking. I decided to go with them, but they seemed inappropriate for an Italian soup, so off I went in an different culinary direction, coming up with something more like a deconstructed cassoulet. I know cassoulet doesn’t typically include cabbage, but the duck, fatty pork, and deep winter herbs I included still made the dish taste like cassoulet. It was declared a success by my sister, my husband, and my friend Jay. That made me happy.

Duck and Cabbage Soup with Flageolets and Marsala
For the beans:
1 1-pound bag flageolet beans (I used Rancho Gordo)
2 fresh bay leaves
1 tablespoon white miso
1 long branch of thyme
1 garlic clove
1 splash dry Marsala
Extra-virgin olive oil
Salt
A drizzle of sherry wine vinegar
For the rest of the soup:
4 duck legs
1 teaspoon ground allspice
Salt
Black pepper
Extra-virgin olive oil
1 ½-inch round slice of pancetta, cut into medium dice
2 carrots, cut into medium dice
1 celery stalk, with its leaves, chopped
1 onion, cut into small dice
2 fresh bay leaves
1 large sprig rosemary, its leaves chopped
A few large sprigs thyme, their leaves chopped
A sprinkling of ground nutmeg
About ½ cup of dry Marsala
1 quart homemade chicken broth
About 3 cups roughly chopped savoy cabbage
A drizzle of sherry wine vinegar
A chunk of grana Padano cheese, to shave over the top
The first thing you’ll want to do is cook the beans. What I did was put them in a big pot and add the bay leaves, miso, thyme, garlic clove, a big splash of the marsala, and a large drizzle of olive oil. I added cool water to cover by several inches, brought it to a boil, and then turned the heat down very low and simmered the beans, partially covered, until tender. Check occasionally to see if they need more water. Mine took a little over an hour. Rancho Gordo beans are usually recently harvested, so they’re not as dry as, say, Goya. They cook quicker. In the final 15 minutes I added salt and a drizzle of sherry wine vinegar. Then I let the beans sit in their cooking liquid. You can cook the beans the day before you make this soup, if you like.
Now for the duck. Score the duck legs in a crisscross fashion, just going through the fat. Rub the duck with allspice, salt, and black pepper.
Get out a big soup pot, and drizzle in some olive oil. Turn the heat to medium. Add the duck legs, skin side down, and cook them slowly until they’re golden brown and much of the fat has left the skin, about 8 minutes or so. Give them a turn and cook the other side for another 5 minutes. Take the duck legs from the pot. Pour off all but a few tablespoons of the duck fat. Add the pancetta, and cook until crisp. Add the carrot, celery, onion, bay leaves, rosemary, thyme, and nutmeg. Let them cook until soft and fragrant, about 5 minutes. Return the duck to the pot. Add the Marsala, and let it bubble for a few seconds. Add the chicken broth, and bring it to a boil. Then turn down the heat, cover the pot, and let it simmer for 2 hours. By this time the duck should be really tender.
Take the duck out of the pot. Spoon off excess fat from the surface and then add the beans, with their cooking liquid, and the cabbage. If the result seems too bulked up, add water, or more broth if you have it. Cook, uncovered, over medium heat, until the cabbage is tender, about 20 minutes.
Take the meat off the duck legs, and pull it into bite-size pieces, discarding the fatty skin. Add it to the pot, and give everything a good stir. If the soup looks too thick (I like a rather loose soup), add water or more broth. Add a drizzle of sherry wine vinegar. Taste for seasoning and adjust. You might want a little more rosemary or thyme or black pepper.
Shave a little grana Padano over the top of each serving, if you like.

By now probably many of you will have have seen A Complete Unknown, the biopic about Bob Dylan, and possibly like me you were angered by the depiction of Suze Rotolo, who was portrayed as a whining doormat. In reality she was the product of a nice Italian communist family from Greenwich Village and grew up to be a civil rights activist and a painter, and she was an early influence on Dylan’s worldview. She also didn’t look anything like the pixie-nosed blonde who played her in the movie.
I highly recommend a 2008 video of her reading from her then soon-to-be-released memoir A Freewheelin’ Time. It was recorded at the Calandra Institute, an organization in Manhattan dedicated to Italian American studies. I often attend programs there. It’s a good resource to know about. Here’s the video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mnG-G99Fhnc. And here’s a link to their website: https://calandrainstitute.org





Dear Erica,
Thanks for this post. I had just bought some RED cabbage to go with magret! The soup sounds great. Next time I see some duck legs at Adams. . But more to the point, I was fascinated by the Suze Retolo video. I was always curious about her because in the ‘60s someone once mistook me for her. Ran after me on the street, calling Susanna, Susanna…. I eventually stopped to face the woman who said, “aren’t you Bob Dylan’s girlfriend ?” I said, “No, sorry my name is Johanna.” LOL Not realizing there was another Dylan song with that name. But I never met him although I fantasized that we both attended the Three Penny Opera the same night…
Looking to get together sometime.
Best, Johanna
>
Hi Johanna, That’s a funny Dylan story. I did see her in the Village a few times over the years. I was a huge folkie, but too young to be involved with the birth of the movement. I jumped in in the 70s when I was in high school, I’m still a big Phil Ochs fan and was a little disappointed he didn’t show up in the film, although Joan did sing There But For Fortune in the movie. Red cabbage and duck breast is a fine combo. Also, for the soup, if you can’t find fresh duck legs, you can buy duck confit and shred that up, adding it at the end. xErica
Soup…such a good thing. Cassoulet, a wonderful thing…what a great way to do both! Who doesn’t love cassoulet? But…the work. My friend chef Andrea makes an amazing but deconstructed cassoulet that is the best I’ve ever had. She uses locally grown coco beans. My first experience and taste of flageolet beans was less than 2 years ago. I’m a big fan and think they are the best beans I’ve ever had! I did something with lamb shanks. Definitely making your creation! How perfect!
Hi Phyllis,
My cassoulet have always been sort of half assed, not including everything, only including some things, like lumps of pork and good sausage. Maybe more Italian in inspiration. But I love the taste and aroma. I often use Rancho Gordo Marcella beans. Happy winter cooking to you.
Lucky for me we have access to a farm that grows the beans here. I’ve a question…have you ever cooked Orca beans? They are so pretty and I’m trying to come up with a plan that will allow the pattern on the beans to come through without being too coated in a heavy sauce. Any thoughts would be appreciated!
I haven’t cooked Orca beans, but Rancho Gordo’s Vaquero bean looks quite similar and I’ve cooked that. I think they’re related. They look pretty in a salad with olive oil and bits of uncooked tomato and herbs. That’s what I did with them the one type I cooked them.
I thought they would look good in a salad…just too pretty to hide. Maybe a tuna, bean salad?