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Women with Fish

I’ve died and gone to heaven.

Sardinian Still Life, by Susan Grundy.

Recipe below: Saffron Tagliatelle with Sausage-and-Fennel Ragù

A storm is coming. Snow, lots of it. I usually love that, but now I fear it’ll just add to the current confinement of our lives. So I’m thinking about flavors. Fennel, saffron, and rosemary. What does combining those three things sound like to you? Good, weird, stupid? If you’ve never tried it, I think you should. There’s a touch of magic in it. You know how some flavor combinations produce a taste distinct from their parts, a new flavor, such as when you mix various spices to create a curry? This is not one of those instances. When you blend fennel, saffron, and rosemary, you still taste each distinctly. Not much melding. Which is, in this case, beauty. It’s hard to understand why curries blend so readily. Possibly because most of the spices have similar strengths. With these three, I think rosemary is so strong and resiny that it stands up well against the fennel and saffron, refusing to give in. And fennel and saffron, while milder, are also two really specific, unusual hits on the palate.

The pasta sauce I’ve made with this combo is a variation on a Sardinian creation I first learned about from Giuliano Bugialli’s book The Foods of Sicily and Sardinia. It’s most often tossed with malloreddus, a type of semolina gnocchi. I’ve made malloreddus, but it’s kind of a pain in the ass, so I didn’t bother this time. Instead I rolled out semolina-and-saffron tagliatelle. Semolina dough is really easy to work with. I just spun out the pasta with my old hand-cranked pasta machine. It was a pleasure to make, and it’s a lovely thing to have for the big snow that’s coming. Now I’m getting excited about the snow. My plan is to have this for dinner and then go marching down 13th Street in the fluffy, not-yet-filth-covered powder.

Saffron Tagliatelle with Sausage-and-Fennel Ragù

(Serves 4)

For the tagliatelle:

3 cups semolina flour, plus more for kneading and rolling
1 teaspoon salt
A big pinch of saffron threads, dried and ground in a mortar and pestle
About 1½ cups warm water

For the ragù:

1 cup good-quality chicken broth
A big pinch of saffron threads, dried and ground with a mortar and pestle
Extra-virgin olive oil
1 round of pancetta, ¼ inch thick, chopped
4 Italian sweet sausages, with fennel seeds if possible, the skins removed and discarded
About 20 fennel seeds, ground with a mortar and pestle (maybe a little less if there’s lots of fennel in your sausage)
1 large onion, chopped
2 garlic cloves, thinly sliced
The leaves from a long sprig of rosemary, chopped
Sea salt
A crumbled dried hot red chili
A big splash of white wine
1 35-ounce can good Italian tomatoes, chopped, with the juice
½ cup cream
A big chunk of Pecorino Sardo cheese

To make the pasta, get out a large bowl, and pour in the semolina. Add the salt, and stir it around to distribute it.  In another bowl, add the saffron to the warm water, letting it dissolve for a minute. Pour that into the bowl with the semolina, and mix everything around with a spoon until you have sticky mass. Work it with your hands just to bring everything together into a ball.

Pour a good amount of semolina out onto a work surface, and turn the dough out onto it. Coat your hands well with semolina, and start kneading until the dough is smooth and softly springs back when you give it a poke. This will take 8 minutes or so, so just zone into it. Add more semolina whenever it gets sticky. When the dough is nice and smooth, wrap it in plastic, and let it rest for an hour.

Divide the dough into quarters, and keeping the pieces you’re not immediately working with wrapped in plastic. Dust your pasta machine with semolina, and start running a piece of dough through until you’re down to the next-to-last setting. It’ll get pretty long, so you’ll probably want to cut it in half at some point. Do this with all the dough. Then lay out the sheets on a semolina-dusted counter or table. Let them dry for about 20 minutes so they can firm up a bit.

Get out 2 sheet pans, and dust them with semolina. Run the pasta sheets through your pasta machine on the tagliatelle setting. Place the tagliatelle on the sheet pans as they come out of the machine, sprinkling semolina over them to coat them well. You can arrange them in loose bundles. If you’ve got enough semolina on them, they won’t stick together. The pasta can sit this way for a few hours.

To make the ragù, dissolve the ground saffron in the chicken broth, and set it aside.

Get a big saucepan hot over medium heat. Drizzle in a tablespoon of olive oil. Add the pancetta, and let it brown. Add the sausage, the fennel seeds, and the onion, and let them all brown lightly, about 5 minutes. Add the rosemary and the dried chili, and season everything with a little salt.

Add the wine, and let it bubble for a few seconds. Add the tomatoes and the saffron chicken broth. Bring to a boil. Then turn down the heat, cover the pan, and let the sauce simmer for about an hour. Then remove it from the heat, and stir in the cream.

Set up a big pot of pasta cooking water, and bring it to a boil. Add the tagliatelle, and cook it until it all floats to the top, probably 4 or 5 minutes.

Reheat the sauce and taste it for seasoning.

Drain the tagliatelle, saving about ½ cup of the cooking water.

Pour the tagliatelle into a large serving bowl. Pour the sauce over the pasta. Add a little of the cooking water if you need to thin it. Grate on a bit of the pecorino, and give everything a good toss. Bring the rest of the cheese to the table.

A mural at Baccalunch, a salt cod–themed restaurant in Florence.

Recipe below: Baccalà Mantecato for a Winter Lockdown

I make baccalà mantecato, whipped salt cod, for Christmas Eve every year, except not this past year. Family troubles and Covid prevented it. I scaled my fish extravaganza down to one fine dish of calamari stuffed with Swiss chard. It was good, but it didn’t provide the crazy, expansive table that I love on that magical night, with clam and mussel and lobster shells all over the place, and lots of candles. It was just the two of us, and we ate too early. Christmas Eve is supposed to be a late-night affair, but we were bored and restless. Is the lockdown turning you into my old Uncle Pat, yelling for dinner at 4:30, with the poodle and the parakeet at the same seating? Damn, I hope not. My sister and I made fun of him constantly, with his 5 o’clock after-dinner snoring and farting, his wild, gray mafia eyebrows twitching, the poodle on his lap.

Whatever you’ve got going now in terms of dinner arrangements, you will find that cooking something beautiful helps. This salt cod dish has a lot of romance going for it. It’s served at bars in Venice, as little cicchetti, or snacks, with a glass of wine, at the dividing line between work and family. Happy hour.

Baccalà mantecato is often offered at room temperature in Venice. Nice, but I’ve come to prefer it hot and gratinéed with a crusty top of breadcrumbs and Parmigiano or Grana Padano. That’s my recipe here. Have your guests spoon it onto toasted crostini, or let them scoop it up with thick slices of raw fennel. A bowl of olives and a glass of white wine or prosecco are pretty much mandatory accompaniments.

 Baccalà Mantecato for a Winter Lockdown

(Serves 4 to 6 as an appetizer)

1 pound salt cod (look for the fat middle section, which has less bones and skin)
Extra-virgin olive oil
1 fresh bay leaf
A big splash of dry vermouth
1 large baking potato, baked until tender, skinned, and roughly mashed
½ cup of milk
¼ cup heavy cream
2 small garlic cloves, thinly sliced
A few big gratings of nutmeg
The grated zest from 1 lemon
5 or 6 large thyme sprigs, the leaves lightly chopped
Black pepper
Piment d’espellete
A small chunk of Grana Padano cheese, grated (you’ll want about ½ cup)
½ cup panko breadcrumbs

You’ll need to soak your salt cod in a big pot of cold water, changing the water several times. In my experience, you usually need two days of soaking to remove enough salt, but after a day taste a piece from the center to see where you’re at. Once the fish is sufficiently desalted, put it in a big pan, drizzle it with a little olive oil, add the bay leaf and the vermouth, and then cover it with cool water. Bring it to a boil, and then turn the heat down to a simmer, and let it gently poach, just until the cod can easily be pulled apart with a knife, usually about 5 to 6 minutes, depending on its thickness.

Take the cod from the pan, and pull it into small pieces, discarding any skin or bones. Drop the pieces into the bowl of a food processor. You can get rid of the poaching liquid.

Add the potato, milk, cream, garlic, nutmeg, lemon zest, thyme, a little black pepper, and a touch of espelette. Pulse quickly a few times to break everything up. Drizzle in about ¼ cup of good olive oil, and pulse a few more times, just until you have a relatively smooth consistency. I like to leave a little texture.

Oil a baking dish, and spoon in the baccalà.  You can stick it in the fridge for a day or two before serving, if you like.

When you’re ready to serve it, preheat the oven to 425 degrees. Mix the panko with the grana Padano and a little olive oil. Sprinkle it evenly over the top of the baccalà, and stick the baccalà in the oven until it’s hot and bubbly and lightly browned, about 20 minutes.

Still Life with Artichokes, Flowers, and Glass Vessels, by Juan van der Hamen, 1631.

Recipe below: Cavatelli with Artichoke, Saffron, and Ginger

I’ve been dealing with some deep family troubles involving mental illness, luckily not my own. In an effort to have the “not my own” stick, I’ve been trying to carve out cubes of time free from the trouble. It’s not easy, but as an optimist, I’m not giving up. Today I’m thinking about artichokes.

Italy’s artichoke season reaches full swing in March. I’ve taken many of my Italy trips then, mainly because it’s off-season and cheaper. I recall a lunch at a steamy little trattoria in Genoa on a chilly day in early March—grilled calamari, wine, and the main event was slim, long-stemmed, pointy artichokes braised in olive oil, basil, and garlic. They were the best artichokes I’d ever tasted. What a fine day. I love Genoa. After lunch, on my way out, I was offered a big bouquet of mimosa flowers, in celebration of International Women’s Day, which is March 8. That was so unexpected. I didn’t know Europeans like to bestow flowers on that day. I felt honored and drunk. Mimosas in Italy are completely different from the feathery, fragrant, silk-like pink-and-white flowers that grow here, for instance on a small tree in front of the building next door to my New York City apartment (we also had one of those trees in our backyard on Long Island when I was a kid). At the Genoa restaurant I was handed a big bunch of fluffy yellow balls. Voluptuous.

Since that long-ago lunch I’ve kept up a romance with artichokes. The Northeast doesn’t do artichokes. All ours come from California, mostly from big growers, and in my experience only the big globe variety, the ones my mother used to stuff with sausage and breadcrumbs for Thanksgiving, make it to New York. In my mother’s preparation the artichoke was like an afterthought. There’s not much flavor in those hulking green balls, and there’s no real season for them here, not like in Italy, where they’re a fleeting late winter to early spring treasure. Here they’re grown all year except in August, when it’s too hot. Why can’t we raise those beautiful Ligurian artichokes (they’re actually a Sardinian variety)? Can’t someone grow them?

Annoyed though I am by the lack of romance in my local artichoke selection, I don’t stop cooking what I find here. I always look for the little “baby” ones that occasionally show up. Those little guys aren’t really babies. They’re siblings of the big globe types that grow lower down the stems. They don’t have the rich sweet bitter taste of the Italian ones, but at least they have no developed choke, so they’re easy to clean.

This week I found a big bag of baby artichokes at my supermarket. They felt a bit flabby, but I figured they’d be okay, so I decided to use them in a pasta dish. I love artichokes with saffron, a truly beautiful combination. I added fresh ginger, sort of a Venetian touch. The pasta came out really well, but the flavors I added were mostly what carried it. If you find even better artichokes than I used, this should be truly excellent.

Cavatelli with Artichoke, Saffron, and Ginger

(Serves 4)

A big pinch of saffron threads
1 cup light chicken stock or vegetable stock
Extra-virgin olive oil
2 dozen or so baby artichokes, trimmed down to the tender leaves, cut in half, and dropped into a bowl of cold water, adding the juice of 2 lemons
2 medium shallots, cut into small dice
Sea salt
1 garlic clove, sliced
6 or 7 sprigs thyme, the leaves chopped
1 green jalapeño pepper, minced, with the seeds
1 1-inch piece fresh ginger, minced (I don’t bother to peel it)
A big splash of dry sake or dry vermouth
1 pound cavatelli
The grated zest from a large lemon
A big handful of basil or mint leaves, lightly chopped
A chunk of pecorino Toscano cheese

If your saffron is moist (as it should be), put it in a small pan, and heat it gently over a low flame for about 30 seconds. This will firm it up enough so you can grind it in a mortar and pestle. Do so, and then sprinkle the ground saffron into the chicken or vegetable stock, and give it a good stir. The stock should turn a light pink.

Set up a pot of pasta cooking water over high heat.

While the water is coming to a boil, set a large sauté pan over medium heat, and drizzle in about 1½ tablespoons of olive oil. When the oil is hot, drain the artichokes, and add them to the pan, along with the shallots. Sprinkle with a little salt, and sauté until everything is fragrant and starting to soften, about 3 minutes. Add the garlic, thyme, jalapeno, and ginger, and continue cooking to release all their flavors, about another 3 minutes.  

Add a good amount of salt to the boiling pasta water, and drop in the cavatelli.

Add the sake or vermouth to the artichokes, and let it bubble for a few seconds. Then add the chicken broth with saffron, and cook, uncovered, until the artichokes are just tender, another 5 minutes or so.

When the pasta is al dente, drain it, and pour it into a large serving bowl. Drizzle on a bit of fresh olive oil, and toss briefly. Add the artichoke sauce, and sprinkle on the lemon zest. Scatter on the basil or mint, and toss again. Check for seasoning, adding more salt, if needed. Grate on a little pecorino, and bring the pasta to the table, along with the rest of the cheese for anyone who might want more.

My Mother’s Hen, by Endre Penovac, 2016.

Recipe below: Chicken in a Pot with Grappa, Parsnips, and Carrots

You know what has started to feel like another lifetime? Hanging out in my childhood kitchen while my parents prepare dinner. I can’t even recall the color of the walls or the attached faux leather banquette we all sat on. Somewhere in that room there were turquoise, pale green, and light brown from the 1960s. My mother, the head cook and party planner, and my father, dishwasher and fruit salad and smoothie maker, are now both gone. Even some of the memories of what they cooked are retreating into the blue-black part of my brain where stuff may still exist but I’m no longer allowed to get at it. For instance, I can’t remember if my mother ever roasted a whole chicken. It seems impossible she wouldn’t have, but I can’t visualize a whole bird being brought to the table.

There were endless variations chicken of cacciatore (made with cut-up chicken), some with mushrooms, some with red peppers, sometimes with basil or rosemary, always with tomatoes and wine, but beyond that I don’t know. Oh wait, there was barbecue chicken on the grill, every summer. That was my father’s department. I think I would have liked it more if it hadn’t often been black on the outside and semi-raw in the middle. Grilling after three martinis.

I cook whole chicken all the time. It seems natural, organic. I’m not sure where I originally got the idea for this all-in-one-pot approach. I thought it might have been from Julia Child, but I almost never use her recipes, and when I looked up chicken in a pot in one of her books, the instructions spanned three pages and entailed browning the thing in the pot, turning it on its sides, back, and breast, and then taking it out, and then adding vegetables, and then putting it back. It didn’t look familiar to me at all. My other thought was that I first read about it in Dorie Greenspan’s big book Around My French Table, which I don’t seem to have anymore, or maybe never owned but just borrowed at some point. In any case, it’s not a dish I learned from Mom. But I love it.

It results in a tender steam-roasted chicken. You’re not going to get the lacquered, super crisp skin of when you hot-blast a chicken uncovered, but to my palate the delicate meat, both white and dark, and the ready-made, boozy gravy make it really special. Maybe you’d like to give it a try. Find yourself a high-quality chicken for it.

Chicken in a Pot with Grappa, Parsnips, and Carrots

(Serves 3)

Extra-virgin olive oil
1 approximately 3-pound chicken, trussed if you like (I didn’t bother)
Salt
2 teaspoons quatre épices
Black pepper, if needed
4 shallots, peeled and pulled apart into sections
4 thick carrots, peeled and cut into 1-inch rounds
2 medium parsnips, peeled and cut into chunks
About 10 garlic cloves, unpeeled
5 rosemary sprigs, the leaves chopped, plus the leaves from a few sprigs for garnish
6 or so thyme sprigs, the leaves chopped, plus the leaves from a few sprigs for garnish
2 fresh bay leaves
¼ cup grappa
½ cup dry vermouth
2 tablespoons unsalted butter, cut into little pieces
½ cup homemade chicken broth, or good-quality purchased broth

Preheat the oven to 450 degrees.

Coat the chicken with olive oil, and season it well with salt and quatre épices (some commercial ones are black-pepper-heavy; if your spice mix doesn’t include a lot of black pepper, sprinkle on a little of that too).

Get out a big casserole with a tight-fitting lid. I used a 14-inch oval Le Creuset pot. Drizzle about a tablespoon of olive oil into it, and get it hot over medium heat.

Add the shallots, carrots, parsnips, and garlic, seasoning with some salt. Add the rosemary, thyme, and bay leaf, and sauté for a few minutes.

Shove the vegetables over to the sides, and lower the chicken in, breast side down. Let it sit there until the skin just starts to turn a bit golden, about 3 or 4 minutes. Then turn over the chicken. Pour the grappa and vermouth over the chicken, letting it bubble for a few seconds. Dot the chicken breast with the butter bits, cover the pot, and stick it in the oven to cook, undisturbed, for an hour.

Remove the pot from the oven. Take off the lid. The chicken should be a warm golden brown. Take the bird from the pot, and put it on a carving board. Add the chicken stock to the pot, and bring it to a boil. Scoop all the vegetables out with a slotted spoon and onto the edges of a big serving platter. Continue cooking down the pot liquid until it’s got a rich taste and a slightly thickened texture, adding a little salt or black pepper if you think it needs it. You might need to skim off some fat (I didn’t bother). Pour the gravy it into a bowl (I poured mine through a strainer for a smoother sauce, but it’s really up to you).  

Carve the chicken into serving pieces, and set them in the middle of the platter. You can add any juices the chicken gives off to the gravy bowl. Scatter on the remaining rosemary and thyme sprigs, and bring it all to the table.

Bar Pitti’s Rigatoni

Bar Pitti, by Hugh Chapman, 2015.

Recipe below: Rigatoni Pitti 

One evening about 15 years ago I walked into Bar Pitti, a neighborhood trattoria I’d been eating at since it opened in 1992, to ask a favor. I had a friend waiting outside in a van. He had muscular dystrophy and could barely walk with or without assistance. I had thought of Bar Pitti for dinner not only because the food was always good but also because it had no step up to get through the door and into the dining room, which my friend would never have been able to negotiate. I wondered if they had room for a party of eight, and possibly, if it wasn’t too much trouble, maybe if one of the bigger waiters could help my friend into his seat. I was doubtful, since the place, as usual, was packed. I saw only one empty table.

Not only did we get a table, but two of the waiters came to the van and hoisted my friend up to standing, steadying him as best as possible, and slowly walking him through the door and to our table, delicately lowering him into his seat. Now, this place is known to be a hipster celebrity and art crowd hangout. I eat there maybe once a month, but I’m a neighborhood type, not part of the Francesco Clemente gang that gathers almost every day for their four-hour lunches. But I was so impressed by their attention to my crippled friend and our unhip group, I just teared up. And he got the same service again when our lovely dinner was finished. The waiters lifted him from his seat, steadied him again (a little harder now after four wines), and walked him back to the van, lifting him onto the front seat and hooking the seatbelt. I’d always loved Bar Pitti, but now I loved it more than ever.

Their menu hasn’t changed at all since I first started going there almost 30 years ago, aside from a few seasonal dishes like puntarella and anchovy salad in the winter or the thick slices of local tomatoes drizzled with olive oil that show up in August. It is simple but thoughtful Italian cooking. Over the years I guess I’ve pretty much eaten my way through the menu, but I frequently return for the rigatoni Pitti, a solid bowl of al dente pasta studded with sausage and peas and bathed in a creamy tomato sauce. I’ve been thinking about how nice it would be to have that right now, at Bar Pitti, eating inside, all cozy with a bottle of Chianti and a few good friends. But of course that’s not possible. They do have outside heaters, but it’s freezing in Manhattan right now, and the heaters just don’t work well enough with the cold air whirling all around your feet and up to your face. So I decided to make rigatoni Pitti myself.

It is not a complicated dish, not difficult to figure out. Sometimes when I work out a restaurant dish at home I get the components right, as far as I can sense, but somehow don’t quite hit it. This time I felt I nailed it. I don’t believe the pancetta and rosemary I added are part of Pitti’s original, but they seemed right to me, adding roundness to the sauce. Pitti uses chicken sausage in the dish, which wouldn’t be my first choice, as I prefer regular Italian pork sausage for my home cooking, but it totally works. I’m not sure why they use chicken, maybe as a healthier choice, though you’d think all the cream in the sauce would cancel that out.  When I went to buy chicken sausage for the pasta, I was amazed at all the varieties I found, such as smoked apple chipotle, which would definitely not have been suitable. I settled on D’Artagnan’s Mediterranean-flavor chicken sausages. They were perfect.

This winter I’ve already seen several of my favorite Village restaurants close down. It’s sad beyond belief. I hope Bar Pitti can hold on. Once the temperature gets back above 30 degrees I’ll bundle up and go sit outside and enjoy this pasta at its source.  

FLASH: Recipe update

A Facebook friend and Bar Pitti regular just reminded me that Pitti actually uses turkey sausage for this pasta. So for absolute authenticity, try it with turkey, but I used chicken and it tasted almost identical to the original.

Rigatoni Pitti

(Serves 4) 

Extra-virgin olive oil 
1 ¼-inch-thick round of pancetta, well chopped 
1 large sweet onion, cut into small dice 
4 turkey or chicken sausages, the skin removed, the meat pulled into bits 
A few sprigs of rosemary, the leaves chopped 
A few big scrapings of nutmeg 
Salt 
Aleppo pepper 
A splash of dry white wine 
3/4 cup chicken broth 
1 35-ounce can San Marzano tomatoes, drained and chopped
1½ cups fresh or frozen peas
About 1/2 cup cream (you can always add a little more later on, if you think it needs it) 
A few drops of rice wine vinegar, if needed 
A chunk of grana Padano cheese
1 pound of rigatoni or penne pasta

Get out a large saucepan, and set it over medium heat. Drizzle in a little olive oil, and add the pancetta. Sauté until the pancetta just starts to crisp. Add the onion, the sausage, the rosemary, a little nutmeg, salt, and a bit of Aleppo pepper. Sauté until the meat is lightly browned, about 5 minutes or so. Add a splash of white wine, and let it bubble for a few seconds. Add the chicken broth, the tomatoes, and the peas, turn the heat down a bit, and let simmer until the sausage is tender, about 5 minutes.

While the sauce is simmering, bring a pot of pasta cooking water to a boil, adding an ample amount of salt. Add the rigatoni.

Add the cream to the pan, stirring it in. Let it simmer a few more minutes to blend the flavors. Taste for seasoning, adding more salt if needed and a little more Aleppo if you like that. I also added a few drops of rice wine vinegar. It helped bring up all the flavors. Depending on the acidity of your tomatoes and wine, you may or may not need that.

When the rigatoni is al dente, drain it, and pour it into a large serving bowl. Add the sauce, grate on a tablespoon or so of grana Padano, and toss well. Serve hot, bringing the rest of the cheese to the table.

The Volpi Nativity, fifteenth century (who is that kid with the big breasts in the bottom left corner?).

Recipe below: Zuppa di Pesce with Marsala, Crème Fraîche, and Basil

Early last night a big snow began in Manhattan. It infiltrated my dreams. Early this morning, around four I think, I dreamed I was looking out my front window onto 13th Street and large, gray fish with black and yellow stripes were marching around through the high snow. They had legs like chickens, and at first I thought they were chickens (last night I cooked a chicken, so that made some sense). But I could clearly see they were more in the bass family. I’ve recently been trying to figure out what to cook for my Christmas Eve fish night, so that might have triggered the dream, except that in my dream fish didn’t seem edible, they seemed like regular city dwellers trying to navigate the streets in a snowstorm. I’ve never thought of fish as pets or neighbors, but I have occasionally thought of them as equals.

Fish have been on my waking mind, too, lately. Almost every Christmas Eve I do some type of zuppa di pesce, always different. I tend toward all-shellfish, I guess because that’s what my mother made, but this year thick chunks of mild fish, like halibut, monkfish, and cod, seem appealing, and I’ve come up with something less Italo-Americano than usual, no garlic, no oregano, no acidic wine. Rather I’ve used Marsala, which I love to cook with, and a touch of sweet spice, and then leveled it out with a spoon of crème fraîche at the end.

I’m thinking that with this Christmas the insular event it’s got to be, I’ll make only a few dishes, but I want them all to be fine. So maybe pizza di scarola to start, then baked mussels with nut pesto, spaghetti with bottarga, and then a variation on this zuppa di pesce. I’m not sure about dessert. I’m not a big sweets person. Maybe an orange salad with cinnamon and mint, and a bottle of grappa for the table.

I hope everyone has a good Christmas.

For some reason I didn’t capture any shrimp in this shot. I think I ate them before I took the photo, but you get the idea.

Zuppa di Pesce with Marsala, Crème Fraîche, and Basil

(Serves 4)

1 pound large shrimp, peeled and deveined but saving the shells
Extra-virgin olive oil
½ cup dry Marsala
1½ cups light chicken broth, or water
1 teaspoon white miso
Sea salt
2 shallots, cut into small dice
1 carrot, cut into small dice
¼ teaspoon ground nutmeg
¼ teaspoon ground allspice
5 or 6 large thyme sprigs, the leaves chopped
1 28-ounce can San Marzano tomatoes, chopped, with the juice
1 pound monkfish, cut into big chunks
1 pound halibut or thick cod fillet, cut into thick chunks
Aleppo pepper
2 tablespoons crème fraîche
A big handful of basil leaves, lightly chopped

Put the shrimp shells in a medium saucepan over medium heat. Drizzle in a little olive oil. Stir the shells around until they turn pink. Add the Marsala, and let it bubble for a few seconds. Pour in the chicken broth or water, add the miso, stir everything around, and then let it simmer at a lively bubble for about 15 minutes. Strain the shrimp broth into a bowl, and season it with a little salt.

Get out a large casserole, and set it over medium heat. Add a big drizzle of olive oil. Add the shallots and the carrot, nutmeg, allspice, and thyme, and sauté until everything is fragrant, about 4 minutes.

Add the shrimp broth and the tomatoes. Turn the heat up a bit, and bring to a boil. Lower the heat, and let the sauce simmer, uncovered, for about 5 minutes, just to allow the flavors to blend.

Season the fish chunks with a little salt and some Aleppo, and add them to the broth, along with the shrimp. Cook, uncovered, until all the seafood is just tender, about 6 or 7 minutes depending on how thick your pieces are.

Turn off the heat, and add the crème fraîche, stirring it in. Taste for seasoning, adding more salt and/or Aleppo if you think you need it.

Add the basil, and bring the zuppa to the table.

My mother always served zuppa di pesce with crumbly Neapolitan biscuits made with black pepper and lard. They’re called friselle, but we always referred to them as lard biscuits.  These are different from the flat, dry bagel-shaped toasts also called lard biscuits. You can use those instead, if you prefer, sticking one in the bottom of each serving bowl before you pour on the zuppa. I didn’t have either on hand for my trial run, so I just dropped a couple of long taralli into the zuppa. Pretty good.

Women with Fish

Fisherman’s Wife, by Gül Pamuk.

Here’s what the Covid 50 looks like. It didn’t happen by eating just fish, I can tell you that. The pasta and pizza diet I’ve been on since April is catching up with me. Pasta with seafood, pizza with seafood, those are two of my most favorite things. During the lockdown I decided to go with it, all cooked at home, with love. I made pizza with clams and tomatoes, pizza with clams and no tomatoes, pizza with anchovies and mozzarella, orecchiette with clams and escarole, penne with shrimp and escarole, cavatelli with braised squid and peas, penne with seared squid and peas, busiate with swordfish and eggplant, busiate with swordfish and almonds, rigatoni with fresh tuna and pistachios, pappardelle with quinine and crab, ziti with canned tuna, capers, and olives, bucatini with sardines and wild fennel, spaghetti moscardini with a red wine reduction, spaghetti with bottarga and butter, spaghetti with sea urchin and orange, spaghetti with colatura and orange, penne puttanesca with monkfish and grief, gemelli with grilled shrimp and radicchio, fettuccine with piss, vinegar, and scallops,  ravioli filled with shrimp, ravioli filled with branzino, ravioli filled with tears, lasagnette with artichokes and octopus, pizza with artichokes and eel, pizza with mussels still in their shells, fusilli with mussels out of their shells. I also cooked a bunch of things with salt cod. And I could go on.

My signature striped boatneck doesn’t have the same boho impact when pulled over all this fat. So now I’ve decided to go on the famous Keats diet, prescribed by his doctor to treat his tuberculosis. It consisted of one anchovy a day and never leaving his apartment overlooking the Spanish Steps. The never leaving the apartment part I’ve got down, although I’m pretty sure he had a better view.

Thanksgiving Olives

A smaller Thanksgiving for sure. That seems okay to me. Too many relatives was never okay. It wasn’t a bad time, but I never loved thanksgiving food. I remember turkey and cigarettes and sambuca. Not terrible. I also remember the stuffed artichokes and braised fennel my grandmother made to Italianize the day. Aside from those lovely dishes, all the mushy stuff, mashed sweet potatoes, stuffing, mashed potatoes, I could do without. What I love is to pull a piece of crusty leg skin off the turkey, wrap it around some broccoli rabe, and then pour on some gravy. This was good, way better than the dried out breast meat that seemed so dreary.

I also love to make marinated olives, something my Nanny always offered, along with raw fennel and celery ( very Puglian).

So all you really need to do here is buy good olives. I used cerignolo green and Moroccan black. A nice mix, I think. Then I sprinkled the olives with fresh chopped rosemary, fennel pollen (or fennel seed), a few crushed garlic cloves (make sure they’re fresh), and coarse ground black pepper. I also added the chopped fronds from a fennel bulb. If you don’t have this, you can use parsley or a little chervil or even a bit of tarragon, but not too much.

Happy thanksgiving to all my friends. It’s a weird one, but we’ll all pull through.

xx

Brussels Sprouts and Egg, by Rick Pushinsky.

Recipe below: Casarecce Pasta with Capicola and Brussels Sprouts

Since moving back to the city in October, after a seven-month stay in upstate New York, I’ve been hyper aware of the sounds inside and outside my apartment. There’s an intermittent buzzing noise in the wall next to my stove. In all the 35 years I’ve been in this place, I never heard it before. Something new, I guess. Early mornings I hear a low rumbling outside my bedroom window. I hear it every morning, usually starting at about 3 a.m. It sounds as if the entire city might be rumbling, but it’s most intense right by my window. It’s also new, I think. Maybe I’m just more sensitive to sounds after spending so much time in the woods. I’m not sure.

Around 4 a.m. last night I heard a kid screaming, a young boy it seemed. I’m not sure what he was screaming. At first I thought it was “Help,” but then I realized it wasn’t. More like “Heyyyyy” repeatedly, and than banging, like banging on a door. He might have been locked out of his apartment, I guessed. I looked out my front windows and tried to see down the block. The sound seemed to be coming from the far end, not from my building in the middle of the block. I expected to hear sirens, but I never did. When I picked up my phone to call 911, the “heyyyyy” stopped. I guess someone returned home from their Covid party and let him in. I don’t know what it was all about, and nobody else in my building that I’ve spoken to heard it. At 5 a.m. the banging of our tenement heating system kicked in. After not hearing that all year, I found it jarring, too, but in a more comforting way.

All the strange noises aside, I’m glad to be back cooking in my city kitchen. It’s a long, narrow galley kitchen, I guess typical of the apartment’s railroad setup. The building, built in 1900, was originally lit by gas, so it’s definitely on the quaint side. On the downside, the entire structure is crumbling, inside and out. But I do love my kitchen. It’s sort of a restaurant arrangement, everything lined up, nowhere to turn. I don’t consider it a relaxed space. It’s a place to get things done. There’s an urgency built in that I like, although I’m not sure if it’s built into the kitchen or into me.

One of my big kicks is going to the Greenmarket, buying lots of vegetables, and spreading them out on my long butcher block, contemplating what to do with them. I did this the other night with a big mess of Brussels sprouts. I knew I was heading in the direction of pasta. The rest of the ingredients were odds and ends pulled from the fridge. It was a New York City success.

Casarecce Pasta with Capicola and Brussels Sprouts

(Serves 4)

Extra-virgin olive oil
1 small fresh serrano pepper, sliced into thin rounds
3 scallions, sliced into thin rounds, using a lot of the tender green part
Salt
½ pound Brussels sprouts, the ends trimmed, sliced thin
½ teaspoon allspice
1 big sprig rosemary, the leaves chopped
4 or 5 sprigs thyme, the leaves chopped
Black pepper, coarsely ground
5 slices sweet capicola
A splash of white wine
½ cup chicken broth
1 pound casarecce or gemelli or penne pasta
A few drops of rice wine vinegar
A chunk of pecorino Toscano cheese
A big handful of pine nuts, lightly toasted

This pasta comes together fairly quickly, so set up your pasta pot at the start, salting the water and setting it over high heat.

Get out a large sauté pan, and get it hot over medium heat. Add a big drizzle of olive oil. Add the serrano, scallions, Brussels sprouts, allspice, rosemary, and thyme, season with salt and black pepper, and sauté until everything is fragrant, about 3 or 4 minutes. Next add the capocolla and stir everything around.

Start cooking the pasta.

Add the white wine and the chicken broth to the sauté pan, and simmer, uncovered, until the Brussels sprouts are just tender but still a bit firm. This will take anywhere from 5 to 8 minutes, depending on how thick you sliced the sprouts. Taste for seasoning, adding a few drops of the rice vinegar to bring up the flavors and a little more salt if needed.

When the pasta is al dente, drain it, leaving a little water clinging to it, and pour it into a large serving bowl. Add the Brussels sprouts sauce. Add a drizzle of fresh olive oil and some more black pepper. Grate on about a tablespoon of so of the pecorino, and toss. Scatter on the pine nuts. Serve hot or warm, bringing the rest of the cheese to the table.