Erica De Mane

Insects on a Sprig of Rosemary, by Jan van Kessler the Elder, 1653.

Recipe below: Strawberries with Rosemary Honey Syrup and Ricotta

I’ve been getting strong cravings for rosemary. Seems like a strange thing for my body to demand, but that is what’s been happening. And the desire is growing. The other night I ordered my routine takeout chicken, which is always decently seasoned, but I had to shower it with rosemary, and I did, lots of chopped sprigs until it veered toward the medicinal. But I wanted all that, and it tasted right to me. Also lately I’ve been flavoring many types of seafood with rosemary, where in the past I would have chosen a less woodsy herb, maybe basil or marjoram. I added rosemary to a white wine clam sauce. I’d never done that before, but it was just what the doctor ordered. I added pancetta and tomato that perfectly balanced all the piney notes, and those clams really hit the spot. I also made rosemary almond biscotti. And I bought rosemary gelato, which zeroed right in on my need, even though, oddly enough, I’m not generally an ice cream fan.

I was curious about what might be fueling this new craving, so I, of course, Googled it. Seems rosemary has always been thought to have healing properties. And most interestingly it turns out this resinous herb, with its woody stems and potent oil, has been used to help manage depression and anxiety for hundreds of years. Anxiety I’ve got by the truckload, so that might account for my wanting it so badly. Hey, it’s no Klonopin, but I do sense a slight lessening of my jitters.

Strawberries with rosemary whipped cream, custard, or goat cheese are all dishes I’ve heard of, mostly in the French kitchen. A touch of deep resin with sweet fruit makes so much culinary sense, especially lately. I’ve Italianized this recipe by including ricotta, which cushions the strong herb nicely. Try this for dessert or breakfast or as a midnight desperation dish with a glass or two of rosato. Your worries will start to slip away.

(Serves 2 to 3)

For the syrup:

3 tablespoons sugar
1 tablespoon wild flower honey (I used acacia)
3 big sprigs rosemary, lightly crushed with the side of the knife to release their oil, plus a few small sprigs for garnish
A small piece of vanilla bean, split
A long peel of lemon skin
1½ cup dry white wine

Plus:

1 pint small, local strawberries, left whole (Tristar are a good variety), or larger ones cut in halves or quarters
About 1½ cups high-quality whole milk ricotta
Freshly ground black pepper

Put all the ingredients for the syrup in a small saucepan, and simmer over medium heat until large bubbles appear on the surface, about 5 minutes (the bubbles will let you know that it has properly thickened). Let sit for about 5 minutes on the turned-off burner to further blend the flavors. Now strain into a small bowl (or just pick out the herbs and such). Stick the bowl in the refrigerator until cool.

Before using the syrup, bring it to room temperature.

Place the strawberries in a bowl. Pour the syrup over the top, and toss gently.

Portion out the ricotta in small bowls or big wine glasses. Spoon on the strawberries and then some of their syrup. Finish with a few grindings of black pepper, and garnish with rosemary sprigs.