Erica De Mane

Still Life with Mussels, Monique Serres.

Recipe: Mussels with Pistachio Pesto, Tomatoes, and Mint

The more I cook, the more predictable my experiments become. I don’t mean that in a bad way. I just mean that now most of my ideas turn out pretty well. Improvisation is learned. I know that seems counterintuitive, but I’ve found it to be true. I’ve come to a point in my cooking where the tradeoff for experience is less disaster but also less surprise. I suppose that’s both good and not so good.

At this point I feel I know the flavors of Southern Italy very well. No matter how I juggle those flavors or how innovative I choose to be, my dishes will still taste somewhat familiar to a Southern Italian. I don’t stray from core flavors. But sometimes an idea can still produce unexpected results, even in a positive way. I love when that happens. I didn’t have high hopes for this mussel dish. I had made baked mussels with pistachio pesto before, even putting a recipe into my book The Flavors of Southern Italy, it came out so good. But somehow steaming them in wine, with the pesto, plus the tomatoes, I figured the liquid would dilute the pesto in an unappealing way, making it look and taste murky. I went ahead with it anyway, mainly because I wanted to use up some stuff in the refrigerator. I was surprised. The sauce came out creamy and rich, not at all watery. It tasted much like a Sicilian pesto, which always contains tomatoes along with nuts and herbs. I really liked the way the pistachios mellowed the brininess of the mussels. I also used very little garlic. I’m a little sick of the typical restaurant preparation of mussels in a really garlicky, winy broth, especially when the chef doesn’t even bother to cook the alcohol off.

Give this a try. It’s different but familiar. I’d say it’s successfully familiar.

Mussels with Pistachio Pesto, Tomatoes, and Mint

(Serves 4)

¾ cup very fresh, unsalted, shelled pistachios (if you can find ones from Sicily, all the better)
Extra-virgin olive oil
2 fresh summer garlic cloves, sliced
Sea salt
2 pints grape tomatoes
A big splash of dry white wine
½ cup chicken broth
3 pounds mussels, cleaned
Freshly ground black pepper
A handful of mint leaves, lightly chopped
A handful of flat leaf parsley, lightly chopped

Put the pistachios, half of the garlic, about ⅓ cup olive oil, and a little salt in the bowl of a food processor, and pulse until you have a fairly smooth paste, but still with a bit of texture.

In a large pot (one that’s heavy and wide, like a Le Creuset, would be best for this), get a drizzle of olive oil hot over medium-high flame. Add the tomatoes, and sear them until their skins just start to crack. Add the rest of the garlic and a little salt, and continue to cook until the tomatoes start releasing some liquid, about 3 minutes longer. Add the white wine, and let it bubble for a few minutes to throw off its alcohol. Add the chicken broth, and simmer to blend the flavors, about another 2 minutes or so. Now add the  mussels, and cook, uncovered, stirring occasionally, until they open. Turn off the heat. Add the pistachio pesto, a generous amount of black pepper, and the mint and parsley. Give it a good stir. Serve with garlic and olive oil-rubbed bruschetta.