Erica De Mane

Recipe: Farro Penne with Andouille, Cauliflower, and Sage

I love andouille sausage, particularly the French type, which is rich, mild, and fatty, not spicy like the Cajun variety or for that matter the Calabrian nduja, which is spicy and spreadable and incidentally most likely got its name from the French sausage many moons ago, when the Bourbons invaded Southern Italy. It’s interesting that the two offshoots evolved into things quite fiery (although just about everything in Calabrian cooking packs some heat). Since the French andouille traditionally has more fat than the Cajun, it’s great for cooking, and it’s a fun change from the more predictable raw Italian pork sausage I usually reach for when I want a pasta-and-sausage dish.

The weather in New York has been a mess of ice, rain, snow, wind, slush, and slop for the past week. Cabin fever and weariness have been making themselves known. The computer screen is burning my eyes. My skin feels tight. A good hearty pasta, one that goes well with nero d’avola, beckons.

What I’m going for here is a strong cauliflower presence. I add a small amount of the andouille, just for flavoring, the way you would pancetta. To my palate, this sausage pairs well with fresh sage, so that became my finishing touch.

Farro Penne with Andouille, Cauliflower, and Sage

(Serves 2 as a main course)

Salt
1 small cauliflower, cut into florettes
½ pound farro penne (Latini is an excellent brand)
Extra-virgin olive oil
1 andouille sausage, cut into small cubes
1 shallot, minced
Salt
Freshly ground black pepper
⅛ teaspoon freshly grated nutmeg
A splash of white wine
½ cup chicken broth
The grated zest from 1 small lemon
6 fresh sage leaves, cut into chiffonade
A small chunk of aged Asiago cheese

Put up a pot of pasta cooking water, and bring it to a boil. Add a generous amount of salt. Add the cauliflower, and blanch for about 2 minutes. Scoop the florettes from the water into a colander, and run cold water over them to stop the cooking. Let them drain, and then spread them out on papers towels to blot up excess liquid (very important if you want them to sauté properly).

Bring the water back to a boil, and add the penne.

In a large skillet, heat about 2 tablespoons of olive oil over medium flame. Add the andouille, and sauté until it starts giving up some of its fat, about 3 or 4 minutes. Add the shallot and the cauliflower, and season with salt, black pepper, and the nutmeg. Sauté for about 2 minutes to coat everything with flavor. Add the white wine, and let it boil out. Add the chicken broth, and simmer for about a minute.

When the penne is al dente, drain it and add it to the skillet, tossing it around to coat everything well.

Pour the pasta into a warmed serving bowl. Add the lemon zest, the sage, a few big gratings of Asiago, and a drizzle of fresh olive oil. Give it a toss. Serve right away, with extra cheese brought to the table.