Erica De Mane

The iron stove that allegedly grilled San Lorenzo, on view in Rome.

Recipe: Agnello alla Scottadito with Fresh Mint and Garlic Vinaigrette

It’s not a huge holiday in America, but lest we forget, August 10 is the feast day of San Lorenzo of Rome. Born in 225, died August 10, 258, in the beautiful but sometimes wicked holy city. San Lorenzo was martyred on an outdoor iron grill, and supposedly during his torture he cried out, “I am already roasted on one side, and if thou wouldst have me well cooked, it is time to turn me on the other.” As a deacon in ancient Roman, he had charge of the administration of church goods and care of the poor—a strange combination of duties that he conflated into one: He distributed church goods to the poor. Bad form all around, according to the church, so he got the grill treatment, or, as we’d say in the restaurant biz, he got hammered.

San Lorenzo is, wouldn’t you know, the patron saint of cooks and bakers. It seems only fitting to celebrate Lorenzo’s day with a burnt offering, Roman style, especially since the reliquary containing his burnt head (a very old head) is displayed in the Vatican on his feast day, while the city around celebrates with fireworks and flames.

Scottadito is a Roman dish, essentially grilled lamb chops, usually rib chops. They’re prepared pretty simply, but they can be marinated in various ways and embellished to your liking. Scottadito translates roughly as “burn your fingers,” because you’re supposed to pick up the chops and eat them hot off the grill. I’ve included a warm mint vinaigrette to spoon over the scottaditi, so I think in this case a knife and fork would make things more tidy. I give the chops a gentle marinade in garlic, sage, and olive oil; not enough to make them gamy, but enough for a little oomph. My favorite accompaniment to scottodito is a salad I’ve been served many times in Rome, a simple toss of spiky arugula (the variety cultivated from the wild) and halved cherry tomatoes tossed with good olive oil, sea salt, and a drizzle of lemon.

If you’re interested in the lives of the saints, a beautiful little book you might like to pick up, one with great stories and gorgeous art, is Patron Saints: A Feast of Holy Cards, by Barbara Calamari and Sandra DiPasqua.

The finished dish.

Agnello alla Scottadito with Fresh Mint and Garlic Vinaigrette

(Serves 4)

12 lamb rib chops (3 per person)
¼ cup extra-virgin olive oil
Salt
Freshly ground black pepper
A pinch of sugar
2 garlic cloves, crushed
A few sage leaves, ripped in half
1 small lemon, sliced into rounds

For the vinaigrette:

½ cup dry white wine
1 tablespoon white wine vinegar
½ teaspoon sugar
1 garlic clove, minced
¼ cup extra-virgin olive oil
½ cup fresh spearmint leaves, well chopped, plus a handful of nice looking whole sprigs for garnish
Salt
Freshly ground black pepper

Place the lamb chops in a low-sided glass or ceramic dish, and add all the marinade ingredients, giving everything a good mix. Marinate the lamb, refrigerated, for about 2 hours, turning the chops a few times (you can leave them overnight, if need be).

To make the vinaigrette, pour the white wine, vinegar, and sugar into a small saucepan, and boil until reduced by half. Add the garlic, mint, and olive oil, and season well with salt and black pepper. Taste to make sure it has a good, gentle acidity. Depending on your wine and vinegar, you may need to adjust with a bit extra vinegar, or maybe a pinch more sugar, if it’s too sharp.

Heat your grill to a medium-high flame, and grill the chops about 4 inches from the heat, about 3 to 4 minutes per side for medium rare. Transfer to a serving platter, and pour on the vinaigrette. Garnish with mint sprigs. Serve right away.