Erica De Mane

Peppers roasted with caciocavallo, black olives, and thyme

Recipes:

Peppers Roasted with Caciocavallo, Black Olives, and Thyme
Grilled Peppers with Salt-Packed Anchovies and Marjoram
Grilled Peppers with Honey, Almonds, and Rosemary
Couscous with Grilled Peppers, Ginger, Basil, and Merguez Sausage
Wheat Berry Salad with Roasted Peppers, Soppressata, and Parsley

Certain vegetables perplex many American cooks. Not their mere existence, but how to cook them. Eggplant is one, artichoke another. Bell peppers seem to be a third; they look so beautiful, almost too shiny and colorful to even put a thumb print on. Most people I know just slice them up and throw them into a salad. But I’m a cook who doesn’t like bell peppers raw, and I say grill them or roast them. Do anything to rid them of their rawness. In my opinion, if they’ve still got a crunch, they’re not at their best. I’m talking about the red, ripe ones. I really don’t care for green bell peppers, raw or cooked. To me their smell is strangely unfood-like, and their flavor really has legs, traveling all over your plate, spreading its essence. When I eat a green bell pepper I sense I’m burping up something vaguely like gasoline for several hours after. The only sweet green peppers I do like are the long Italian frying ones, like my father used to grow in his backyard garden. He picked them when they were just faintly tinged with specks of red. Then my mother slow-roasted or sautéed them, along with onions and sometimes sausages, until they almost seemed dissolved (a truly Italian-American approach).

The smell of ripe, red bell peppers from the sunny bins of the Greenmarket is rich and sweet. Early August is when they start piling up, so gorgeous you can’t believe they’re not some Chinese lacquered art object. And they come in shiny brown, purple, orange, and sunflower yellow, too, but the classic reds are always the sweetest (the gorgeous purple fades to a mottled pale green when you grill their skins off).

Heat coaxes out their sweetness. After slowly charring off their skins, I like to toss the softened pepper slices with sweet or salty touches and summer herbs. Very traditional Southern Italian additions can include anchovies, garlic, almonds, pine nuts, capers, olives, oregano, marjoram, mint, parsley, or basil. To emphasize the peppers’ sweetness, I avoid adding much acidity in the way of vinegar or wine, but a good olive oil, I feel, is really essential, something not too biting but more on the gentle, fruity side.

My other favorite way with bell peppers is to stuff them and roast them. A dish my mother often made was whole red bell peppers filled with rice and sausage, sometimes with a tiny pasta such as acini in place of the rice. This is a great winter dish, but during summer I prefer to prepare peppers more simply, sometimes omitting the starch element altogether and filling them with pure flavor, a nice melting cheese like caciocavallo, a handful of olives, and fresh herbs. Peppers done that way taste best slightly warm, not piping hot.

Here are a few bell pepper recipes I’ve made recently. I hope they’ll be a welcome addition to your summer repertoire. Also take a look at my Spaghetti with Roasted Pepper and Basil Purée, from Fall 2004, for an easy pasta that can be served hot or at room temperature.

Peppers Roasted with Caciocavallo, Black Olives, and Thyme

Here’s a stuffed pepper recipe that contains no starchy filler but just a mingling of strong flavors. Since those flavors are so rich, I roast the peppers halved and serve them as a first course or as part of an antipasto. I’ve chosen to include caciocavallo, one of Southern Italy’s great melting cheeses, but you can substitute a fresh goat cheese or feta if you like.

(Serves 6 or 7)

4 ripe red bell peppers, cut in half lengthwise right through the stems, if possible (this helps the peppers hold their shape)
Extra-virgin olive oil
Salt
3/4 pound caciocavallo cheese, cut into small cubes
2 plum tomatoes, seeded and cut into small dice
A handful of Gaeta olives, pitted and roughly chopped
1 large summer garlic clove, minced
A splash of cognac or brandy
6 large thyme sprigs, the leaves lightly chopped
Freshly ground black pepper

Preheat the oven to 425.

Coat the pepper halves all over with olive oil, and place them, cut side up, on a baking sheet. Sprinkle them with salt, and roast them until they’ve just started to soften and become fragrant, about 20 minutes. Take them from the oven, and let them cool for a few minutes (if there is liquid in the peppers, dump it out).

Meanwhile, in a medium bowl, combine the caciocavallo, tomato, olives, garlic, cognac or brandy, thyme, and a few grindings of black pepper. Add a pinch of salt and drizzle in a tablespoon of olive oil. Toss gently. Fill the peppers loosely with the cheese mixture and place them back in the oven to roast until the cheese is melted and all the flavors have mingled, about 10 minutes longer. Serve warm.

Grilled Peppers with Salt-Packed Anchovies and Marjoram

What makes these special is the Sicilian salt-packed anchovies. Once they’re desalted, they’re almost like fresh fish, but with a flavor all their own. Flott is a good brand that is fairly easy to find in this country.

(Serves 6 as an antipasto dish)

5 ripe red bell peppers
Extra-virgin olive oil
1 large summer garlic clove, thinly sliced
5 sprigs fresh marjoram, the leaves lightly chopped
A pinch of sugar
3 salt-packed anchovies, filleted and soaked in cool water for about 10 minutes, then drained well and chopped into tiny bits.
A small splash of dry white wine

Place the peppers on a baking sheet, and broil them about 6 inches from the heat source. When they become black and charred, start turning them, charring them all around. You can also char them on an outdoor grill (a stove flame doesn’t really work well; it blackens the peppers before they have a chance to cook through and become tender and sweet). When the peppers are thoroughly charred, let them sit in a covered bowl for about 10 minutes so they can steam (this makes them easier to peel). Now peel and seed them (try to do this without running them under water, since water will wash away some of their sweet juices). Cut them into thick slices, and place them in a shallow serving bowl. Drizzle on about 2 tablespoons of olive oil, and give them a toss. Add the garlic, marjoram, a pinch of sugar, the anchovies, and the white wine (very little wine, about a teaspoon only, just to add a gentle acidity). Toss again, and let them sit for about 30 minutes before serving, so they can develop flavor.

Grilled Peppers with Honey, Almonds, and Rosemary

This grilled pepper dish concentrates on sweet and warm flavors, not the more sharp, salty, and bold ones that are more usual. Sometimes I like to serve these alongside my Roasted Peppers with Salt-Packed Anchovies and Marjoram, for an unexpected contrast.

(Serves 6 as an antipasto dish)

5 ripe red bell peppers
Extra-virgin olive oil
A handful of whole blanched almonds
Salt
2 small sprigs rosemary, the leaves chopped
A pinch of Aleppo pepper
A splash of dry Marsala
A teaspoon of honey

Place the peppers on a baking sheet, and broil them about 6 inches from the heat source. When they become black and charred, start turning them, charring them all around. You can also char them on an outdoor grill (a stove flame doesn’t really work well, as it blackens the peppers before they have a chance to cook through and become tender and sweet). When the peppers are thoroughly charred, let them sit in a covered bowl for about 10 minutes (this makes them easier to peel). Now peel and seed them (try to do this without running them under water, since water will wash away some of their sweet juices). Cut the peppers into thick slices.

In a medium skillet, heat 2 tablespoons of olive oil over medium heat. Add the almonds and a pinch of salt, and sauté until lightly golden, about 4 minutes. Add the peppers, the rosemary, and the Aleppo pepper, and sauté a minute longer, just to blend all the flavors. Add a splash of Marsala and the honey, turn off the heat, and give everything a stir. Add a pinch more salt if needed. Pour into a shallow serving bowl, and serve warm or at room temperature.

Couscous with Grilled Peppers, Ginger, Basil, and Merguez Sausage

Basil and ginger make a very good combination, as I discovered while looking for a replacement for cilantro, an herb often paired with ginger in recipes but a taste my Southern Italian brain wants to interpret as poison.

You can serve the couscous without the merguez, either as a side dish or alone as an easy lunch.

(Serves 4 as a main course)

2 ripe red bell peppers
Extra-virgin olive oil
1 tablespoon unsalted butter
1 large shallot, chopped
1 garlic clove, thinly sliced
1/2 teaspoon grated fresh ginger
About 1/8 teaspoon ground cinnamon
1/4 teaspoon sugar
A generous pinch of Aleppo pepper, or a little less of Cayenne
2 cups low-salt canned chicken broth (or homemade broth, if you have it)
1 1/2 cups fast-cooking couscous
Salt
A small cucumber, peeled, seeded, and cut into small dice
A handful of basil leaves, cut into thin strips, plus a few nice looking sprigs for garnish
1 pound merguez sausage

Place the peppers on a baking sheet, and broil them about 6 inches from the heat source. When the peppers become black and charred, start turning them, charring them all around. You can also char them on an outdoor grill (a stove flame doesn’t really work well, as it blackens the peppers before they have a chance to cook through and become tender and sweet). When the peppers are thoroughly charred, let them sit in a covered bowl for about 10 minutes (this makes them easier to peel). Now peel and seed them (try to do this without running them under water, since water will wash away some of their sweet juices). Cut the peppers into small dice, and set them aside for a moment.

In a medium saucepan, heat the olive oil and butter over a medium-low flame. Add the shallot, garlic, and ginger, and sauté a minute or so to release their flavors. Add the cinnamon, sugar, and Aleppo pepper, and sauté a moment longer. Add the chicken broth, turn the heat to high, and bring to a boil. Pour the couscous into a shallow serving bowl. Pour on the hot broth, and cover the bowl with aluminum foil. Let sit for 10 minutes.

Meanwhile, heat up a stove-top grill plate (or an outdoor grill). Grill the merguez, turning it several times, until it is browned and just cooked through, about 6 or 7 minutes.

Fluff the couscous with a fork, and place the merguez on top. Decorate with basil sprigs. Serve hot or warm.

Wheat Berry Salad with Roasted Peppers, Soppressata, and Parsley

I love the texture and flavor of wheat berries, especially served cool during the summer. Once you cook and cool them, you can add any number of ingredients to make an interesting salad. Here I’ve chosen roasted red peppers, bits of soppressata, and Italian parsley, one of my favorite summer herbs.

(Serves 5 as a first course or a side dish)

1 1/2 cups hard winter wheat berries (soft summer wheat cooks up a bit too mushy for this salad)
1 bay leaf, fresh if possible
Extra-virgin olive oil
Salt
Freshly ground black pepper
2 ripe red bell peppers
1 large summer garlic clove, minced
A few scrapings of nutmeg
A generous pinch of sugar
3 scallions, cut into thin rounds, using some of the tender green part
A handful of pine nuts, lightly toasted
About 6 thin rounds of soppressata salami, skinned and cut into small dice
The juice from 1/2 lemon, mixed with 2 tablespoons cool water
A generous handful of flat-leaf parsley, chopped

Put the wheat berries in a large pot, and add cold water to cover by about 4 inches. Add the bay leaf, and bring the water to a boil. Reduce the heat to medium-low, and cook, uncovered, at a low bubble for 40 to 45 minutes. Add hot water if the water level sinks to less than an inch above the wheat. When done, the grains will have swelled to about twice their size and be tender to the bite, with a bit of resistance. Some of the grains will have started to burst. Drain well, and pour into a large serving bowl. Remove the bay leaf. Drizzle with two tablespoons of olive oil, and season with salt and black pepper. Give the wheat berries a gentle toss, and let them come to room temperature.

While the wheat berries are cooling, place the peppers on a baking sheet, and broil them about 6 inches from the heat source. When the peppers become black and charred, start turning them, charring them all around. You can also char them on an outdoor grill (a stove flame doesn’t really work well; it blackens the peppers before they have a chance to cook through and become tender and sweet). When the peppers are thoroughly charred, let them sit in a covered bowl for about 10 minutes (this makes them easier to peel). Now peel and seed them (try to do this without running them under water, since water will wash away some of their sweet juices). Cut the peppers into small dice.

Add the peppers to the wheat berries. Add all the remaining ingredients, plus a drizzle of fresh olive oil, and give everything a gentle toss. Taste for salt and pepper, adding a little if needed. Let sit, unrefrigerated, for about 20 minutes before serving, to develop the flavor.