Recipes:
Fingerling Potato Salad with White Wine, Thyme, and Shallots
Red New Potato Salad with Tarragon Mayonnaise and Capers
Yukon Gold Potato Salad with Wild Arugula and Summer Garlic
One reason I love making potato salad is because it gives such a great opportunity to show off extra-virgin olive oil. I dress the potatoes while they’re still warm and let them soak up the oil and whatever other seasoning I’ve decided on. My current favorite oil is Maussane-les-Alpilles from Provence. It’s a gentle, golden oil, very olivey, without the bite of a green Tuscan oil, a taste I find too strong for the starchy sweetness of potatoes. I am also still crazy about my all-time favorite Sicilian oil, Ravida, which is a bit grassier than the Provence oil but still lush and mellow. You can order both of these great oils from Zingermans.An olive-oil-infused potato salad is to me the most special potato dish of all. I even like it better than a rich gratin, especially in warm weather. And it’s a dream to make in the summer, when I can find little new potatoes and fingerlings at my Greenmarket. A fresh herb, summer garlic or something from the onion family, and your best olive oil are all you need to toss together a memorable little potato salad that is, in my opinion, the ideal accompaniment to a grilled steak. Here are three very differently flavored potato salads that I’ve made recently. I hope they’ll give you some ideas if you’d like to concoct your own.
Fingerling Potato Salad with White Wine, Thyme, and Shallots
I made this recently to accompany grilled halibut kebabs. It’s simple to prepare but tastes very lush.
Vinaigre de Banyuls is a first-rate oak-barrel-aged vinegar from South Western France. It’s ripe and mellow like a good sherry. And speaking of sherry, Spain’s sherry vinegar is also excellent in potato salads, since it has a roundness with no sharp edges. You don’t want to overpower that sweet potato taste with strong flavors, so I really feel that a gentle vinegar is the thing. I even find good quality red wine vinegar a bit too strong. If I don’t have the Banyuls or sherry vinegar on hand, I use lemon juice or even just a splash of dry white wine to add a soft acidity.
(Serves 4 or 5 as a side dish)
2 pounds fingerling potatoes, cut in half lengthwise
Salt
1/4 cup dry white wine
1/4 cup extra-virgin olive oil
1 teaspoon Banyuls or Spanish sherry vinegar
Freshly ground black pepper
A few scrapings of nutmeg
2 red shallots, thinly sliced
2 small inner celery stalks, thinly sliced, with the leaves, chopped
1 small branch of thyme, leaves chopped
A handful of flat-leaf parsley leaves, chopped
Place the potatoes in a large pot and fill it with cool water to cover them by about 2 inches. Add a generous amount of salt and bring to a boil over high heat. Turn the heat down to medium and boil, uncovered, until the potatoes are just tender but still holding their shape, about 6 or 7 minutes.
Drain the potatoes well and place them in a large serving bowl. Pour on the white wine and give them a toss with your fingers. Let them sit for about 5 minutes so they can soak up the wine, tossing them once or twice. Now add the olive oil, vinegar, black pepper, nutmeg, shallots, celery, thyme, and parsley. Add a sprinkling of salt, and toss again. Serve warm or at room temperature.
Red New Potato Salad with Tarragon Mayonnaise and Capers
I like a richer potato salad like this one with a very simple grilled fish. I recently served it to accompany grilled whole porgies that I seasoned only with olive oil, lemon, and black pepper. Here I make it with a cheater’s mayonnaise that tastes really great. The secret, if you can call it that, is to whisk a little extra-virgin olive oil into regular old Hellmann’s.
(Serves 4 or 5 as a side dish)
2 pounds red-skinned new potatoes, cut in half
Salt
1 heaping tablespoon jarred mayonnaise (I like Hellmann’s)
1 tablespoon extra-virgin olive oil
1 teaspoon Dijon mustard
A squeeze of fresh lemon juice
1 fresh summer garlic clove, minced
2 scallions, cut into thin rounds, using some of the tender green part
6 or 7 large sprigs of tarragon, the leaves chopped
A palmful of salt-packed capers, soaked in cool water for about 20 minutes and then rinsed and drained
Freshly ground black pepper
Put the potatoes in a large pot and fill it with cool water to cover them by about 2 inches. Add a generous amount of salt and bring to a boil over high heat. Turn the heat to medium and boil until the potatoes are tender but still holding their shape, about 6 to 7 minutes. Drain well.
Put the mayonnaise in a large serving bowl. Then slowly whisk in the olive oil until it’s emulsified. Whisk in the mustard and lemon juice. Add the garlic, scallions, tarragon, and capers. Season with salt and black pepper, and mix well. Add the potatoes (they should still be a little warm) and toss gently until well blended. Serve warm or at room temperature.
Yukon Gold Potato Salad with Wild Arugula and Summer Garlic
Here’s another olive-oil-infused potato salad that has the added bonus of sweet summer garlic and the bite of wild arugula. It’s excellent with rich meat such as lamb or pork. I’ve served it with pan-seared lamb chops flavored with a little fresh savory.
(Serves 4 or 5 as a side dish)
2 pounds little Yukon Gold potatoes, cut in half
Salt
A splash of dry vermouth
Extra-virgin olive oil
The zest from half a lemon, plus a teaspoon of its juice
2 small summer garlic cloves, minced
A handful of wild arugula, well stemmed
Coarsely ground black pepper
5 sprigs of marjoram, the leaves chopped
A handful of pine nuts, lightly toasted
Place the potatoes in a large pot and fill it with cool water to cover them by about 2 inches. Add a generous amount of salt and bring it to a boil over high heat. Turn the heat to medium and boil until the potatoes are just tender but still holding their shape, about 7 minutes. Drain well and place them in a large serving bowl. Add a splash of vermouth and give the potatoes a toss. Add about 3 tablespoons of olive oil, the lemon zest and juice, garlic arugula, black pepper, marjoram, and pine nuts. Add a sprinkling of salt, and give everything a gentle toss. Serve warm or at room temperature.
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