Erica De Mane

Recipes:

Torta with Sweet Onions, Anchovies, and Potatoes
Zucchini, Ricotta, and Basil Torta
Swiss Chard Torta with Pine Nuts and Dates

I just came back from a little off-season trip to Liguria, the area along the Mediterranean that encompasses Genoa and also such famous beach towns as Portofino and San Remo, which are stunning and a breeze to drive through in the low season. What the area lacks in knock-out floral displays in early March it makes up for in serenity. But when I was in search of new food ideas, I headed off the coast into the hill towns.

Liguria is the birthplace of pesto. The sweet, non-peppery, non-minty basil grown in the region really is more mellow than the stuff I’ve eaten in Sicily or Naples, or New York. They say it’s the soil. I brought a few seed packs of basilico genovese back and I’ll try planting them in my in-laws’ Manhattan roof garden this summer and see what comes up.

Basil is not the only herb Ligurians are in love with. I tasted marjoram in several pasta dishes and rosemary in their focaccia and farinata, a moist but firm chickpea-flour pancake-type thing, which is incredibly delicious (especially with a glass of their Rossese, an uncomplicated red wine that’s the best I sampled in the area). I also tasted herbs in many of their vegetable tarts, which are very popular in pastry shops all around the region, filled with Swiss chard or a mix of bitter greens and cheese, or artichokes, zucchini, mushrooms, or potatoes, many versions touched with hints of anchovy or olives.

When I returned home I began working out my own versions of these savory tarts. To encase my improvisational fillings, I tried several variations of the typical olive-oil crust used most often in Liguria, customizing it by adding different wines, a pinch of sweetness, herbs, or lemon zest. The basic recipe I decided on had equal parts olive oil and wine, so it was moist and easy to work with and cooked up with a nice crispness.

Now I often enjoy a large slice of vegetable tart, accompanied by a simple green salad and a glass of white or rosé wine, for dinner. I also serve thinner slices as an appetizer when I have guests, often with a glass of prosecco.

Here are three recipes that I think came out particularly well.

Torta with Sweet Onions, Anchovies, and Potatoes

I love this combination of flavors. I often make potato gratins seasoned with bits of anchovies and caramelized onion, so I thought they’d work well in a savory tart. I added Pecorino, marjoram and parsley for extra savor, and a few eggs to hold it all together. You’ll want to use a 9-inch tart pan with a removable bottom

(Serves 6)

For the crust:

2 cups flour, plus about a tablespoon extra
1/2 teaspoon salt
1/2 cup dry white wine
1/2 cup extra-virgin olive oil

For the filling:

2 large russet potatoes, peeled and cut into small cubes and boiled until just tender, about 8 minutes
Extra-virgin olive oil
2 medium Vidalia onions, thinly sliced
1/2 teaspoon of sugar
Salt
Freshly ground black pepper
5 scrapings of fresh nutmeg
A splash of dry white wine
A few large sprigs of marjoram, the leaves chopped
6 or 7 large sprigs of flat-leaf parsley, the leaves chopped
4 oil-packed anchovy fillets, well chopped
2 large eggs
1/2 cup grated, young Pecorino cheese (a soft Pecorino Toscana is good)

To make the crust, place the flour and salt in a large bowl and mix to blend. Pour the white wine into the center of the bowl and then pour in the olive oil. Mix with a spoon until you have a sticky ball. Sprinkle a little flour out on a work surface and plop the dough on it. Knead very briefly just until he dough is smooth, about 2 minutes. Cut the dough into two parts, one a bit smaller than the other. Flatten the dough into round disks with the palm of your hand and let sit, unrefrigerated, while you make the filling.

Preheat the oven to 400 degrees. Place the potato cubes in a medium saucepan and cover them with cool water by about 2 inches. Add salt and bring to a boil over high heat. Cook until the potatoes are tender, about 7 minutes. Drain.

In a large skillet, heat 2 tablespoons of olive oil over medium-low heat. Add the onions, the sugar, salt, black pepper, and nutmeg. Sauté until the onions are soft and fragrant and just starting to turn lightly golden, about 20 minutes. Add the potatoes, seasoning them with a bit more salt, and sauté them for a few minutes to coat them with flavors and to make them very tender. Add the white wine and let it boil for a few seconds. Take the skillet from the heat let it cool for about 10 minutes. Now add the marjoram, parsley, anchovies, eggs, and Pecorino. Give everything a few grindings of fresh black pepper and mix gently.

Roll out the large dough disk with a rolling pin and drape it into the bottom of the tart pan, trimming off any excess. Pour the filling into the pan and smooth it out. Roll out the smaller circle and drape it over the top, pressing the rolling pin against the edge of the pan to cut off any excess. Pinch the edges of the dough together all around so they seal, and poke a few little holes into the top.

Bake until golden, about 40 minutes. Let sit at least a half hour. Serve warm or at room temperature.

Zucchini, Ricotta, and Basil Torta

I got the idea for this flavor combination from a pasta dish I ate in Puglia a few years back. It’s a fragrant mix of sautéed zucchini, ricotta, and basil (I give a variation on this in my book The Flavors of Southern Italy). I’ve added pancetta and lemon zest to give the filling punctuation. Try to find tiny first-of-the-season zucchini for this, as you can cook them quickly to tenderness, leaving them slightly firm and giving the filling a pleasing texture. Use a 9-inch tart pan with a removable bottom.

(Serves 6)

For the crust:

2 cups all-purpose flour, plus about a tablespoon extra
The grated zest from 1 small lemon
1/2 teaspoon salt
1/2 cup dry white wine
1/2 cup extra-virgin olive oil

For the filling:

Extra-virgin olive oil
3 thin slices of pancetta, well chopped
9 tiny first-of-the-season zucchini, or 5 medium zucchini, cut into thin rounds
2 shallots, thinly sliced
5 large thyme sprigs, the leaves chopped
Salt
Freshly ground black pepper
A splash of dry white wine
1/2 cup whole-milk ricotta
1 teaspoon sugar
1/2 cup grated Scamorza or Caciocavallo cheese
The grated zest from 1 small lemon
2 large eggs, lightly beaten
A few scrapings of fresh nutmeg
A dozen basil leaves, lightly chopped

Preheat the oven to 400 degrees.

To make the crust:

Place the flour, lemon zest, and salt in a large bowl and mix well. Pour in the white wine and then the olive oil and mix with a wooden spoon until you have a sticky ball. Sprinkle about a tablespoon of flour out onto a work surface and turn the dough onto it. Knead briefly, just until the dough is smooth, about 2 minutes. Cut the dough in half, making one half a little smaller than the other. Flatten both pieces out into disks with the palm of your hand and let them sit on the counter while you make the filling.

In a large skillet heat 2 tablespoons of olive oil over medium heat. Add the pancetta and sauté until it just starts to get crisp. Add the zucchini, shallot, thyme, salt, and a few grindings of black pepper. Sauté until the zucchini is lightly golden, about 5 minutes. Add the splash of white wine and let it boil away. Let the mix cool for a few minutes (stick the skillet in the refrigerator for a minute or so if you like).

In a large bowl, combine the ricotta, the sugar, the Scamorza or Caciocavallo, lemon zest, eggs, salt, a few more grindings of black pepper, nutmeg, and basil. Mix well. Now add the zucchini and mix again. Taste for seasoning, adding more salt or pepper if needed.

Roll the large disk out thinly and drape it into the tart shell, pressing it into the sides and trimming off any excess. Pour the filling into the tart shell and smooth out the top. Roll out the smaller disk and place it on top, pressing down around the rim of the pan with your rolling pin to cut off any excess. Pinch the edges of the dough together all around to seal it well. Poke a few holes in the top of the tart, and bake until golden, about 40 minutes. Serve warm or at room temperature.

Swiss Chard Torta with Pine Nuts and Dates

Here’s a variation on the Swiss chard tarts served in various parts of Liguria and also in Nice. Pine nuts and raisins are more usual additions, but I’ve put in dates instead. Use a 9 inch tart pan with a removable bottom

(Serves 6)

For the crust:

2 cups all-purpose flour, plus about a tablespoon extra
1/2 teaspoon salt
1/2 cup dry Marsala
1/2 cup olive oil

For the filing:

Extra-virgin olive oil
1 medium shallot, minced
1 large bunch Swiss Chard (about 12 large leaves), washed and dried, the tough white ribs removed (you can leave some of the thinner parts of the ribs), the leaves well chopped
Salt
Freshly ground black pepper
A pinch of ground cinnamon
A splash of cognac or brandy
3/4 cup grated Grana Padano cheese
2 large eggs, lightly beaten
4 soft dates, pitted and cut into tiny pieces
1/2 cup pine nuts

Preheat the oven to 400 degrees.

To make the crust: Place the flour in a large bowl. Add the salt and mix well. Pour the dry Marsala into the center of the bowl and then add the olive oil. Mix well with a large spoon until you have a sticky ball. Sprinkle about a tablespoon of flour out onto a work surface and turn the dough onto it. Knead briefly, just until you have a smooth ball, about 2 minutes. Cut the dough into two pieces, one slightly larger than the other. With the palm of your hand, flatten both dough pieces into disks. Let them sit on the work surface while you make the filling.

For the filling: Heat 2 tablespoons of olive oil in a large skillet over medium flame. Add the shallot and let it soften for a minute. Add the Swiss chard, season with salt, black pepper, and the cinnamon, and sauté until it’s just very lightly wilted but not cooked down, about 3 minutes. Add the cognac or brandy and let it bubble for a minute. Take the skillet off the heat and let the chard cool for a few minutes. Now add the Grana Padano, eggs, dates, and pine nuts. Season with a little extra salt and black pepper and mix well.

Roll the bigger dough disk out so it’s large enough to fit in the tart pan. Drape the dough into the pan, pressing it into the sides. Trim any excess. Roll the smaller disk out in the same fashion. Pour the filling into the pan, smoothing the top. Place the other dough round on top, pressing all around with your rolling pin to cut off any excess. Pinch the dough together all around with your fingers to form a good seal. Poke a few tiny holes in the top (I use a wooden barbecue stick for this purpose). Bake until the top is golden, about 40 minutes. Serve warm or at room temperature.