Erica De Mane

Recipes:

Quick-Sautéed Calamari with Rosemary, Bread Crumbs, and Watercress
Slow Braised Calamari with Basil, Peas, and a Hint of Cinnamon
Calamari Stuffed with Arugula and Almonds and Braised in Sweet White Wine

In the middle of winter I start to feel that anything goes in cooking, and lately I’ve found myself thinking a lot about squid. It’s not a particularly wintry ingredient; it’s just something I enjoy working with. I’ve been choosing from a wide array of Southern Italian flavorings to create squid dishes with a cold-season feel.Southern Italians have a real knack for creating delicious food from the weedy, the gnarly, and the lowly. In the case of calamari, they have risen to the challenge by transforming this common, rubbery, disturbing-looking sea creature into alluring dishes by blending it with olive oil, wine, garlic, tomatoes, pasta, fresh herbs, greens, and vegetables, even cooking it in its own ink, and creating squid-ink pasta the color of the night sky.

Over the years of cooking in a Southern Italian style, I’ve learned to love calamari. When I braise it in a big pot of winy broth it fills my kitchen with a gentle but complex sweetness. When I quickly pan-sear young squid with olive oil and a touch of garlic, the fish’s translucent paleness goes snowy white when it hits the pan, and after about a minute it’s cooked to perfect tenderness. For me, squid grilling on an outdoor barbecue is one of the best food smells of summer, and I’m really looking forward to experiencing it again this year. But for now I’m happy to throw squid on an indoor grill plate and smoke up my kitchen.

When I first started cooking squid at home, the biggest surprise for me was its complete lack of fishiness. It has a rich, sweet quality, not a briny one. This was a great relief, considering how things with tentacles had turned me off on principle. Now I find squid an absolute pleasure to handle and cut. I even buy it uncleaned just for the drama of tackling it from step one. The other surprise was how unchallenging it was to prepare, once I learned a few things. I think most foods that look odd are automatically perceived as tricky to cook, especially if they’re not something you grew up watching your family cook all the time. Despite my Southern Italian upbringing, I hardly ever had squid as a child; my mother, a modern New Yorker, considered calamari an embarrassingly rustic thing to bring into our home. But now that it’s trendy she orders it all the time at restaurants, and she eats it at my house, fixed many different ways.

The Basic Secret to Cooking Squid

The most important thing to keep in mind about squid is that you want to either cook it briefly over high heat, until it’s just tender, or slow-simmer it over low heat, so it can become tender again; anything in between will give it a rubbery texture you might recognizing from eating calamari at run-of-the-mill restaurants. Cooking squid well is not a difficult undertaking, even for a beginning cook, but it helps to know a few things about the nature of the beast.

The size of the squid I find in my market dictates to me more than anything else how I’m going to cook it. Tiny squid is best for quick cooking, either searing in a pan, grilling, or frying. It’s also my squid of choice for a cold salad, where I blanch it quickly in boiling water, until it’s just tender, usually no more than a minute. Larger squid is suited for braising or stuffing, where the low heat and slow cooking will make it tender. But even when you’re braising the largest squid it doesn’t take that much time to cook; 30 to 40 minutes will do it (the largest squid I’ve ever cooked was maybe 6 inches long, not including the tentacles, and I’ve seldom seen any bigger in the markets). A slow braise of squid is not like a beef stew, which you can let go for a couple of hours; in fact, if you cook squid longer than about 40 minutes, it may become dry. Squid contains a lot of water, as you’ll discover when you start cooking it; you want to retain some of the moisture to ensure a bit of a juicy bite.

Flavoring Squid

Olive oil is the starting point for flavoring squid, as I discovered the very first time I used it and the lovely aroma of fruity olive mixed with sweet sea flavors came wafting up from the pan. I always choose an extra-virgin oil for cooking squid, one with lots of olive taste and little bitterness (for instance I’ll go for a golden southern Italian oil over a green, biting Tuscan one). Braised or slow-simmered squid is a great friend of wine, and you’ll notice I use different types of that in my recipes. Sweet and dry wines both have their place, and so do fortified ones like Marsala and port, adding their classic musky undertones. I also like to include small amounts of sweet or dry vermouth, or flavored aperitif-type liqueurs such as anise-scented Pernod, or Sambuca, or herby Lillet. I sometimes add a splash of cognac or grappa to a braised squid dish in the beginning of cooking, letting it quickly cook out and then letting the squid finish slow-simmering in a more substantial amount of dry wine. This gives the fish a real depth of flavor, and the long cooking gives the wine a chance to evaporate its alcohol. Quick sautéed squid can take a little alcohol too, but you want to stick to small amounts so the booze can burn off quickly, before the squid overcooks in the skillet. I often add a tiny splash of a liquor with real, distinct flavor, like Limoncello or Calvados, to a quick squid sauté, since they produce a big impact.

Tomatoes and calamari are a classic coupling, especially in Southern Italy, and I’ve cooked many squid dishes with fresh, raw, and canned tomatoes. Green vegetables are traditional paired with squid too; spinach is cooked with squid in Tuscany, while escarole or other bitter-edged greens are more of a Southern Italian inspiration. Squid simmered with spring peas is a Venetian classic. I often make a version of braised squid with chick peas, cannellini beans, or lentils for a wintry one-pot meal. Sometimes I’ll use pasta instead of beans, usually a sturdy dried shape like orecchiette or penne, which gives a nice rustic quality to the dish. Squid and herbs of all sorts make a perfect marriage. I’ll chose basil or mint in the summer and switch to something earthier, like sage or rosemary, in cooler months. Strong accent flavors provided by olives, capers, anchovies, garlic, or hot chilies can work well too, but I try to use them with discretion so I don’t overpower the fish’s sweetness. In fact, sweet spices such as nutmeg and cinnamon marry beautifully with squid.

Quickly sautéed squid scattered over cool salad greens is one of my favorite preparations, especially when I’m lucky enough to find small tender squid. Bigger pieces, on the other hand, make perfect containers for fillings. Ricotta with spinach or arugula is a traditional filling; you can also choose a simpler version with bread crumbs and herbs or go for a dressier dish filled with chopped shrimp and finished with a sprinkling of caviar. I also like to incorporate ground nuts into a squid stuffing, especially pine nuts, almonds, or pistachios. Quite frankly, the stuffing possibilities are almost endless, as long as you concoct something with enough body to keep it inside the squid.

Buying Squid

I know this sounds obvious, but freshness is key to making squid taste wonderful. This is certainly true of all seafood, but even after only a day in your refrigerator squid starts to lose some of its sweetness, so I feel it’s especially important to make an effort to find the freshest squid you can and cook it the day you buy it. The squid you find in a supermarket or in most fish shops has most likely been frozen and thawed, like most of the shrimp we buy. This is not necessarily a bad thing. Freezing actually tenderizes it somewhat, especially large squid. Some fish shops only sell it frozen, which is fine too. If you buy it that way, keep it frozen until the day you cook it, and let it defrost naturally at room temperature. Running warm water over frozen squid or sticking it in a microwave can make it tough.

Squid is fished year round on both the East and West Coasts. The freshest squid I’ve ever purchased in this country comes from a family that sells just-caught Long Island fish at my farmer’s market in Manhattan. It has glistening skin and a firm, slippery texture that is noticeably different from that of the defrosted, slightly softer supermarket squid I also buy. If you can find a fish seller who offers squid this fresh, go for it. But there’s nothing wrong with defrosted squid. Often it’s flash-frozen on the boat, so it can be very, very fresh. The problem is that you really don’t know how long it’s been at the fish store since defrosting, and asking the fish seller usually gives you no real answer except, “Oh yes, very fresh miss, very fresh.” It’s also hard to tell just from looking at it how the frozen squid has been handled by shippers and markets. If it hasn’t been kept rock-solid frozen before defrosting, it could be a little off. I always ask to smell squid before I buy it. It may seem impertinent, but it’s really the only way to determine what shape it’s in. If it smells even the least bit fishy or has any freezer-burn odor, I won’t buy it.

How Much Squid Should I Buy?

Squid really shrinks when cooked, since it contains a lot of water. If you start out with cleaned squid, plan on buying a half pound of raw squid per person. If you purchase it uncleaned, three quarters of a pound per person is about right.

Quick Sautéed Calamari with Rosemary, Bread Crumbs, and Watercress

What makes this simple dish so good is cooking the squid very quickly over really high heat so that it lightly sears, producing great flavor and leaving the squid tender but still firm and juicy. Choose a heavy-bottomed skillet and get it hot over a high flame even before you add your olive oil. You should hear a distinct sizzle when the squid hits the pan. Find the smallest, tenderest squid you can for this recipe (ideally the fish should be no longer than three inches so you can cook them whole).

(Serves 4)

Extra virgin olive oil
1/2 cup homemade, dry bread crumbs, not too finely ground
2 small sprigs rosemary, the leaves well chopped, plus four nice-looking sprigs for garnish
A generous pinch of sugar
Salt
Black pepper
2 bunches watercress, well stemmed
About a dozen cherry tomatoes, cut in half
About a teaspoon of champagne vinegar
2 pounds very fresh, small (2 to 3 inches) squid, cleaned and the bodies and tentacles both left whole
A few scrapings of nutmeg
2 garlic cloves, thinly sliced
Zest of 1 lemon
A splash of brandy or cognac

In a small skillet, heat about a tablespoon of olive oil over medium-low heat. Add the bread crumbs and chopped rosemary, and season with the sugar, salt, and black pepper. Sauté briefly, just until the bread crumbs are lightly golden and fragrant with the rosemary, about 2 minutes.

When you’re ready to serve the dish, place the watercress and cherry tomatoes in a salad bowl. Add about 2 tablespoons of olive oil and the vinegar. Season with salt and black pepper and give it a gentle toss. Taste for a good balance of oil to acidity, and divide the salad up onto four small plates.

To ensure that the squid sautés properly, dry it well with paper towels (moisture will impede searing). Place a large skillet over high flame and let it heat up for a few seconds before adding about two tablespoons of olive oil (enough to lightly coat the bottom of the skillet). When the skillet is almost smoking, add the squid, spreading it out to cover the entire skillet surface (it will cook more quickly with a little space between the pieces). Add the nutmeg, garlic, and lemon zest. Season with salt and black pepper, and let the squid sizzle in the skillet for about 2 minutes without moving it around at all (stirring it will cause it to give off liquid, resulting in a more poached than sautéed taste). It should be lightly browned at the edges. Now turn the squid pieces over with a tong and let them cook, without moving them around, for about another minute or so. About 3 minutes total should be all they need. When the squid turns an opaque creamy white, it’s a good indication that the squid is cooked perfectly, but taste test a piece if you’re uncertain (it should be tender with just a touch of pleasant chewiness, but with no raw pull to it). Add the splash of brandy or cognac, giving the skillet a little shake to disperse the alcohol. Pull the skillet from the burner and sprinkle on the bread crumbs, shaking the skillet around to distribute them well. Divide the squid up onto the watercress, garnish with rosemary sprigs, and serve right away.

Slow Braised Calamari with Basil, Peas, and a Hint of Cinnamon

Quickly sautéing the squid with garlic, onion, and pancetta before you add liquids and start your braising helps give this dish its depth of flavor. In fact, any time you’re slow-cooking squid it’s a good idea to give it an aromatic sauté as a first step; it lightly caramelizes the squid, adding a lot of flavor to the sauce. And as you’ll discover, cinnamon is a beautiful match for squid, introducing another sweet dimension to this gentle seafood and filling your kitchen with a richly exotic aroma.

(Serves 4)

Extra-virgin olive oil
1 thin slice pancetta, cut into small dice
1 medium shallot, cut into small dice
2 garlic cloves, thinly sliced
1/2 cinnamon stick
2 pounds very fresh, medium squid, cleaned and cut into thick rounds, the tentacles left whole
Salt
Black pepper
A splash of brandy or cognac
1/2 cup dry white wine (something light and not oaky, like a Frascati, is best)
1 bay leaf, fresh if possible
1 28-ounce can diced tomatoes, drained
1/2 cup low-salt canned chicken broth
1 package frozen baby peas, defrosted
A handful of basil leaves, lightly chopped
4 large slices crusty Italian bread

Choose a large casserole fitted with a lid. Put about a tablespoon of olive oil in the casserole and let it get hot over medium heat. Add the pancetta and let it sauté until just starting to get crisp. Add the onion and sauté until softened, about 3 minutes. Add the garlic, cinnamon stick, and the squid. Season with salt and black pepper and sauté until the squid turns opaque, stirring it around once or twice so it cooks evenly, about 2 minutes. Add the splash of cognac or brandy and let it boil for a moment. Now add the white wine and let it bubble for about a minute. Add the bay leaf, tomatoes, and chicken broth, cover the casserole, and turn the heat to low. Let this simmer at a very low bubble, figuring on about 30 minutes of cooking. After about 15 minutes, you’ll start to notice an incredibly sweet smell filling your kitchen; this indicates that the squid is cooking nicely and all the flavorings are blending. After about 25 minutes of cooking, taste a piece of squid for tenderness. When perfectly cooked it will be very tender and soft and it will have shrunk in size from having given off water. It might need to simmer another 5 to 10 minutes, depending on the size of the squid (but you actually can over-cook braised squid, making it a little dry, since the longer it cooks, the more liquid it gives off).

When the squid is tender, add the peas to the casserole, letting everything cook gently, uncovered, for a minute or two. Since squid releases water, the texture of the dish will be rather brothy (good for dunking toasted bread into). Add the basil and check to see if the dish needs more salt. Add a few grinding of fresh black pepper and a drizzle of fresh olive oil (raw extra-virgin olive oil added at the end of cooking adds great flavor).

To serve, toast the Italian bread slices on both sides and brush one side of each piece with olive oil. Ladle the squid with plenty of its broth out into large soup bowls and stick a piece of toast in each one.

Calamari Stuffed with Arugula and Almonds and Braised in Sweet White Wine

Sweet wine does wonders for squid, providing a luscious sauce. A Sicilian Moscato from Pantelleria or a Muscat Beaumes de Venise from France is an excellent choice, but any type of fruity, white dessert wine will taste fine.

Since the cooking method for this stuffed squid recipe is really another form of slow braising, larger squid works best here, and the big ones are a lot easier to stuff too.

(Serves 4)

2 pounds medium to large squid, cleaned and left whole, the tentacles chopped (you’ll only need about 1/2 cup of chopped tentacles and can discard any extra)
1/2 cup whole, blanched almonds, plus a handful of lightly toasted, roughly chopped almonds for garnish
1 garlic clove
1 large bunch arugula, stemmed
1/2 cup homemade dry bread crumbs, not too finely ground
1/2 cup grated Grana Padano cheese
Zest of 1 small lemon
1 large egg
Extra-virgin olive oil
5 scrapings of fresh nutmeg
Salt
Black pepper
A handful of toothpicks
1 tablespoon unsalted butter
A few large thyme sprigs, the leaves chopped
3/4 cup sweet white wine (see above)
A generous squeeze of fresh lemon juice
A handful of flat-leaf parsley, lightly chopped

Place the whole almonds and garlic in the bowl of a food processor, and pulse to a rough chop. Add the arugula, and pulse several times until you have a rough paste. Add the bread crumbs, Grana Padano, the lemon zest, the egg, the chopped squid tentacles, and about 2 tablespoons of olive oil. Season with the nutmeg, salt, and black pepper, and pulse once or twice more, just to blend everything. You want a bit of texture to the stuffing, so try not to pulse it to a completely smooth consistency.

Fill the squid about three-quarters full with the stuffing, and close the ends with a toothpick (if you overstuff the squid it may break open when cooking, since it shrinks quite a bit).

In a large skillet (one that will hold the squid in one layer), heat the butter and a tablespoon of olive oil over medium heat. When hot, add the squid, season with the thyme, salt, and black pepper, and sauté, turning the pieces once with tongs, until they’re lightly golden, about 4 minutes. Add the wine, cover the skillet, and turn the heat down to low. Let the squid cook at a very gentle simmer for about 30-35 minutes, turning it once or twice. Check the skillet a few times during cooking to make sure there is at least 1/2 inch of liquid in the skillet. If necessary add a splash of hot water.

Give the squid a poke with a thin, sharp knife to see if it’s tender (the knife should pierce it easily). Let it cook a bit longer if it’s not. When tender, take the squid from the skillet and slice the pieces on an angle into thick rings. Place the squid on a warmed serving platter and scatter the parsley on top. Add the lemon juice to the skillet sauce, stirring to blend it in. Adjust the seasoning with a pinch of salt if necessary, and pour the sauce over the squid (if bits of stuffing have drifted into the sauce, you can pour it through a medium sieve right over the squid to remove them, if you like). Give everything a few grindings of fresh black pepper, and scatter on the toasted almonds. Serve hot.