Erica De Mane

Recipes:

Chickpeas with Rosemary and Saffron
Israeli Couscous with Scallions, Pine Nuts, and Marjoram
Orzo with Cherry Tomatoes and Parsley

I usually consider the simplicity or complexity of my squid preparation when picking a side dish to pair it with. Simple grilled or quick-sautéed squid flavored only with lemon or a single herb can take a more involved side dish than can a brothy stew or stuffed squid. With the latter I like keeping any accompaniment rather plain, so it doesn’t interfere with the flavors of the main dish. Here are a few sides that have worked well for me, both for simple and more involved squid concoctions. They can all be served hot, warm, or at room temperature, so you can make them ahead if you like.

Chickpeas with Rosemary and Saffron

Here’s a good way to coax good flavor from canned chickpeas. This recipe goes well with simple grilled squid served with maybe just lemon wedges. To serve it with my Quick Sautéed Calamari with Rosemary, Bread Crumbs, and Watercress, leave out the rosemary in the chickpea recipe and just go with the saffron and parsley flavors, to avoid rosemary overload.

(Serves 4 or 5)

2 15-ounce cans chickpeas (I’ve found that organic brands tend to have better flavor and a firmer texture than most; I often buy Eden Farms)
Extra-virgin olive oil
2 medium shallots, cut into small dice
2 tender inner celery stalks, cut into small dice, with the leaves, chopped
Salt
Freshly ground black pepper
A pinch of sugar
1 allspice, ground to a powder
3 small sprigs rosemary, the leaves well chopped
1/4 cup dry white wine
1/2 cup low-salt canned chicken broth (or homemade, if you have it)
A generous pinch of saffron threads, ground to a powder
A small handful of flat-leaf parsley leaves, lightly chopped

Pour the chickpeas into a colander and give them a rinse with cold water (this will remove saltiness and any metallic taste they may have picked up from the can). Let them drain.

In a large skillet, heat 2 tablespoons of olive oil over medium flame. Add the shallots and celery, including the celery leaves. Add salt, black pepper, the ground allspice, and the rosemary, and sauté until the vegetables are soft and fragrant, about 3 minutes. Add the chickpeas and sauté a minute longer, just to coat them with flavor. Add the white wine and let it boil for about a minute. Add the chicken broth and the saffron and simmer at a low bubble for about 4 minutes, just to blend the flavors and to boil off some of the liquid. The texture should be moist but not soupy. Taste for seasoning, adding more salt if needed. Add a generous drizzle of fresh extra-virgin olive oil, a few grindings of fresh black pepper, and the parsley. Mix gently and pour into a large serving bowl. Serve hot, warm, or at room temperature.

Israeli Couscous with Scallions, Pine Nuts, and Marjoram

I love the tiny pellet texture of Israeli-style couscous. It’s less fluffy and more like regular pasta than the standard couscous. This dish is delicious with a brothy squid dish such as my Slow Braised Squid with Basil, Peas, and Cinnamon. Basil and marjoram are a strong but exciting marriage of flavors, and you can change the herb to suit the squid dish you’re pairing it with. If I were serving this with my Squid Stuffed with Arugula, Almonds, and Sweet Wine, I might replace the marjoram with parsley or a small amount of thyme, either of which will blend better with that dish.

(Serves 4 or 5)

Salt
1 pound Israeli couscous
Extra-virgin olive oil
8 scallions, cut into thin rounds, using some of the tender green part
5 scrapings of nutmeg
Freshly ground black pepper
1/4 cup dry vermouth
5 sprigs of marjoram, the leaves lightly chopped
1/2 cup pine nuts, lightly toasted

Bring a large pot of water to a boil and add a generous amount of salt. Add the Israeli couscous and cook until al dente (cooking time may vary, since some of this kind of couscous comes in different sizes, so check the package directions and test while it’s cooking). Drain the couscous and pour it into a large serving bowl. Drizzle with about a tablespoon of olive oil. Season with salt and freshly ground black pepper and toss gently, just to make sure it doesn’t stick.

In a medium skillet, heat 2 tablespoons of olive oil over a medium flame. Add the scallions, season them with nutmeg, salt, and black pepper, and sauté just until they lose their raw edge, about 4 minutes. Add the vermouth and let it bubble for about 30 seconds. Add the scallions with all the skillet juices to the couscous. Add the marjoram and the pine nuts, and a drizzle of fresh olive oil. Toss gently. Taste for seasoning, adding more salt and a few grindings of black pepper if needed. Serve hot, warm, or at room temperature.

Orzo with Cherry Tomatoes and Parsley

This goes especially well with grilled calamari, since the acidity of the tomatoes cuts the squid’s smokiness in a nice way. I’ve made this dish with basil, with a mix of parsley and tarragon, with a mix of gentle herbs, and with just a little grated lemon zest, depending on how I flavored my squid.

(Serves 4 or 5)

Salt
1 pound orzo pasta
Extra-virgin olive oil
2 garlic cloves, thinly sliced
1 1/2 pints cherry tomatoes
Freshly ground black pepper
1/4 cup dry Marsala
1/4 cup flat-leaf parsley leaves, very lightly chopped

Set up a large pot of pasta cooking water and bring it to a boil. Add a generous amount of salt and then add the orzo. Cook until al dente. Drain well and pour into a large serving bowl. Drizzle with a tablespoon of olive oil and toss.

In a large skillet, heat 2 tablespoons of olive oil over medium-high heat. Add the cherry tomatoes, and let them sit in the skillet without moving them around for about 30 seconds. When they start hissing a bit, add the garlic, and shake the skillet frequently. Season with salt and black pepper. After about 4 minutes the tomatoes will start to burst. When most of the tomatoes have burst but are still holding their shape, add the Marsala, and let it bubble for about 30 seconds. Pour the tomatoes with all the skillet juices onto the orzo. Add the parsley and a drizzle of fresh olive oil, and toss. Taste for seasoning, adding more salt and a bit of fresh black pepper if desired.