Erica De Mane

Recipes:

Braised Salmon Pizzaiola with Gaeta Olives
Cavatelli with Fresh Salmon, Arugula, and Burst Cherry Tomatoes
Salmon Carpaccio with Marjoram and Pine Nut Vinaigrette
Seared Salmon on Fennel and Orange Salad

Salmon is not a fish native to Southern Italy, but it does show up on menus there, usually at upscale, contemporary restaurants where the chef likes to experiment. The chef is right to do so, for salmon’s rich, oily taste and texture marries beautifully with classic Southern Italian flavors such as capers, olives, anchovies, orange and lemon, fennel, artichokes, fine olive oil, tomatoes, arugula, basil (one of the best herbs for salmon), and good dry wine. I’ve explored some of these flavor combinations in the recipes I offer you here.

In my opinion salmon’s richness can get a little sickening; I find it needs to be broken up with fresh, sharp flavors. This is especially true for farmed Atlantic salmon, which is very rich. Wild pacific varieties, which I seem to find in my fish shops year round these days (I believe they’re frozen during harvest and then sold throughout the year), have unique flavors, with colors ranging from pale peach to crimson, and varying amounts of oil. King and sockeye are both really delicious. They’re rich in a more interesting way than the farmed variety.

I often serve some sort of salmon dish as part of my all-fish Christmas Eve dinner. Several years ago I made a salmon pizzaiola with Gaeta olives. The pizzaiola flavor in its purest form is achieved by blending the Southern Italian trio of tomatoes, oregano or marjoram, and some type of dry wine, producing a taste somewhat like pizza sauce. I prefer the gentler flowery flavor of marjoram over the dried oregano that they favor in Southern Italy. Salmon pizzaiola is an extremely simple dish, but one with vibrant flavor. I give you my recipe here.

Some Italian-inspired salmon dishes just don’t work, in my opinion. One of my all-time least favorite Italian-American restaurant items is pasta tossed with smoked salmon and cream. Heating brings out the worst in smoked salmon, and mixed with cream the strong smoky fish flavor permeates the entire dish. I actually find this a bit nauseating, and I have even left a restaurant when I saw it on the menu, since for me it’s a sign that the rest of the menu will be ill-conceived too. I have had success tossing chunks of freshly cooked salmon with pasta and adding various vegetables or a simple tomato sauce, and I include here a recipe for pasta with fresh salmon, arugula, and seared cherry tomatoes, which I think is delicious and in true Southern Italian style

Braised Salmon Pizzaiola with Gaeta Olives

(Serves 4 as a main course)

Extra-virgin olive oil
Salt
Freshly ground black pepper
A generous pinch of ground nutmeg
4 approximately 1/2-pound salmon fillets (or a bit smaller), skinned (wild salmon is best, but you can get good results with the farmed variety too)
1 medium shallot, thinly sliced
2 garlic cloves, thinly sliced
A generous splash of dry Marsala or dry vermouth
1 35-ounce can Italian plum tomatoes, well chopped, with the juice
5 sprigs fresh marjoram, the leaves chopped
A handful of basil leaves, lightly chopped
A handful of Gaeta olives, pitted if you wish

In a large skillet, heat about a tablespoon of olive oil over medium-high heat. Season the salmon with salt, black pepper, and a few scrapings of nutmeg. Brown the salmon very well on the rounded, non-skin side about 4 or 5 minutes, and then remove it from the skillet, using a slotted spatula to let excess oil drain off. Pour out all the oil from the skillet and add a tablespoon of fresh olive oil (if there are any slightly burnt bits from the salmon cooking, wipe those out with a damp paper towel before adding the olive oil). Add the shallot and sauté for about a minute just to soften it. Add the garlic and let it sauté for about another 30 seconds, until everything is fragrant. Add the Marsala or vermouth and let it bubble away. Add the tomatoes, season with salt and black pepper, and simmer, uncovered, at a lively bubble for five minutes. Add the salmon, browned side up, turn the heat to low, and simmer until the salmon is just cooked through, about 4 minutes longer, spooning the sauce over the salmon frequently. Add the marjoram, the basil, and the olives and simmer a few seconds longer, just to blend all the flavors. Check for seasoning and add a bit more salt or black pepper if needed. Serve right away with good Italian bread, a green salad, and a glass of dry white wine.

Cavatelli with Fresh Salmon, Arugula, and Burst Cherry Tomatoes

(Serves 4 as a main course)

1 pound salmon fillet, skinned (I prefer a wild salmon variety for this, finding the oil from farmed salmon a bit strong for pasta)
Extra-virgin olive oil
Salt
A pinch of ground clove
6 large sprigs fresh thyme, the leaves chopped
1 pound cavatelli
2 pints sweet cherry or grape tomatoes
2 garlic cloves, thinly sliced
3 scallions, cut into thin rounds, using some of the tender green part
1/2 fresh, red chile, minced (and seeded if you like less heat)
A generous splash of dry white wine
1 large bunch arugula, stemmed and roughly chopped
A palmful of capers

Cut the salmon fillet into approximately 1/2-inch cubes and place them in a small bowl. Add a drizzle of olive oil, salt, the ground clove, and about half of the chopped thyme, and toss gently with your fingers to blend all the ingredients.

Set up a large pot of pasta-cooking water. Bring it to a boil and add a generous amount of salt. Drop in the cavatelli.

In a large skillet, heat 2 tablespoons of olive oil over high heat. When the skillet is very hot, add the tomatoes, garlic, scallions, fresh chile, and the remaining thyme all at once. Season with salt and sear the tomatoes, shaking the skillet occasionally, until they start to burst, about 4 minutes. Add the white wine, and let it bubble for a few seconds. Turn off the heat.

In a another skillet, heat another tablespoon of olive oil over a high flame. When the skillet is very hot, add the salmon cubes and brown them quickly, about 3 minutes, leaving the middle slightly pink.

When the cavatelli is al dente, drain and transfer to a large, warmed serving bowl. Add the tomatoes with all their pan juices, the capers, and the arugula. Add the salmon, leaving any skillet oil behind (too much salmon oil can give pasta an overly fishy taste). Give everything a generous drizzle of fresh olive oil and an extra sprinkle of salt. Toss gently (the heat of the pasta will wilt the arugula). Serve hot or warm.

Salmon Carpaccio with Marjoram and Pine Nut Vinaigrette

(Serves 6 as a first course)

3/4 pound very fresh salmon fillet, skinned (I prefer farmed salmon here since it’s very rich and oily and can stand up to a vinaigrette)
Extra-virgin olive oil
Sea salt
The juice and zest from 1 small lemon
1 shallot, minced
5 large sprigs marjoram, leaves lightly chopped
A generous pinch of ground, dried red chile (I like Aleppo pepper)
A tiny pinch of sugar
1/2 cup pine nuts, lightly toasted

With a very sharp knife, cut the salmon on the bias into very thin slices, cutting almost parallel to the surface (the way you would cut smoked salmon). Lay the slices out in a sort of flower-petal pattern on six salad plates. Drizzle them lightly with extra-virgin olive oil and give each serving a sprinkling of sea salt.

In a small bowl, mix together 3 tablespoons of extra-virgin olive oil, the lemon juice, zest, shallot, marjoram, a generous pinch of sea salt, the ground red chile, and a tiny pinch of sugar.

When you’re ready to serve, spoon a generous amount of the vinaigrette in the middle of each plate of salmon. Scatter on the pine nuts. Serve right away.

Seared Salmon on Fennel and Orange Salad

(Serves 4)

4 approximately 1/2-pound (or a bit smaller) salmon fillets, with the skin on (wild and farm-raised are both fine for this)
Salt
About 6 fennel seeds, ground to a powder
Freshly ground black pepper
Extra-virgin olive oil
2 fennel bulbs, cored and thinly sliced, plus a handful of the feathery tops, chopped, for garnish
The zest from 1 orange, plus 3 oranges peeled and sliced into thin rounds
A small head of frisée lettuce, cut into bite-size pieces
1 large leek, well cleaned and sliced into thin rounds
2 oil-packed anchovies, minced
1 tablespoon Spanish sherry vinegar

Preheat the oven to 450 degrees.

Press the ground fennel seeds, a bit of salt, and black pepper onto the skin of the salmon fillets.

Put the fennel, orange slices, frisée, and leek in a large salad bowl and set it aside.

In a small bowl, combine the orange zest, chopped anchovy, 3 tablespoons of extra-virgin olive oil, and the sherry vinegar. Add a pinch of salt and a few grindings of black pepper. Whisk to blend.

In a large skillet, heat about a tablespoon of olive oil over high flame. When the skillet is hot, add the salmon fillets, skin side down, and sear until nicely browned, about 4 minutes. Place the skillet in the oven without turning the salmon.

Pour about 3/4 of the vinaigrette over the salad and toss. Divide the salad up onto 4 dinner plates. When the salmon is just cooked through, but still a bit pink in the center take it from the oven (probably about 4 minutes of oven time). Place one fillet, skin side up, on each salad. Drizzle the remaining vinaigrette over each fillet. Garnish with the chopped fennel tops. Serve right away.