Erica De Mane

Recipes:

Pears with Star Anise, Vanilla, and White Wine, Served with Fresh Goat Cheese
Pears Poached with Bay Leaf, Orange Peel, and Rosé Wine, Served with Mascarpone and Pine Nuts
Pears Poached with Thyme, Cassis, and Honey, Served with Young Pecorino Cheese
Pears Poached with Rosé Wine and Cardamom, Served with Crème Fraiche
Pears Poached with Red Wine, Rosemary, and Black Pepper
Pears Poached with Marsala and Cinnamon, Served with Ricotta Cream and Pistachios

Lately I’ve been poaching a lot of pears in a variety of wines, herbs, and spices. They have a very Christmasy smell, reminding me of the hot spiced wine people served at holiday parties during the l970s (though not my family; they took their wine straight). Trying to figure out what combinations of wine and flavorings taste best I’ve gotten a bit carried away with this pear project, and actually at the moment I don’t even want to smell another pear. But I’d like to pass my best recipe discoveries on to you.

Poached pears really are a perfect winter dessert; they’re easy but always look sumptuous on the plate, as if you went to the trouble of making something very regal. Wine is the best poaching liquid, since it adds sharpness, fruitiness, and richness at all once. I’ve found that light, non-oaky wines works best, since when boiled down they retain good fruit flavor. Unaged Beaujolais is one of my favorite choices, since it’s light and uncomplicated. Simple red Rhone wines also reduce nicely, not turning too concentrated or tannic. I tend to stay away from jammy-, oaky-, pruny-flavored wines for poaching pears, finding them too heavy and sometimes bitter when reduced to a syrup. With whites I tend to go for refreshing, dry types such as Frascati or Orvieto. Rieslings and other richer honey-scented whites like Greco di Tufo reduce with a touch of sweet perfume, which can also be lovely. Dry Provençal rose is another wine I’ve had good results with. I sometimes mix a dry white or rosé wine with a splash of something sweet like cassis, Grand Marnier, or port. Red wine can be fortified with a hit of Calvados or cognac. Sweet dessert wines are also great for poaching pears, but they tend to be expensive, so I’d rather keep them for drinking. Still, if I have a quarter bottle of a moscato left over, I’ll throw it in with a dry wine for a more complex poaching liquid. And I don’t know how many people keep a bottle of Lillet, the French vaguely orange flavored aperitif, around the house, but it also makes a wonderful poaching liquid, especially if you throw in a few strips of orange peel.

As for adding herbs and spices, vanilla mingles beautifully with wine and sugar to produce a just about perfect syrup for pears, but I’ve had luck with other spices too, either alone or blended with vanilla. Star anise, nutmeg, cinnamon, black pepper, cardamom, fresh ginger, and saffron are all interesting to play with. I find clove or allspice, which are typically used to flavor poached fruit, too strong, actually almost medicinal tasting when left to simmer.

Of the fresh herbs I’ve experimented with I’ve been happiest with bay leaf and rosemary used in small amounts, and also tarragon and thyme. Sage becomes very musty with long simmering, so I would avoid it. Oregano’s bitterness is amplified in a poaching liquid. Basil, which I though would be wonderful, actually takes on a cat-pee fragrance with long poaching. I do something scatter fresh chopped basil over poached pears as a garnish, and that’s delicious, especially if you’ve poached in a fennely or anise scented liquid. Fresh lavender can be nice, but again, I find it’s better just for scattering over the pears fresh than for poaching (long cooking can turn it bitter).

You’ll notice I’ve paired most of these poached pears with some type of mild cheese, something creamy, or a sprinkling of nuts. Most delicate cheeses, like fresh goat’s cheese, ricotta, unaged Pecorino, or anything not too pungent, mingle really well with a sweet pear-scented poaching syrup. Many people like blue cheese with poached pears, but I do not. Somehow the sharpness of the cheese with the sugary syrup combines to taste soapy to me. If I want to eat gorgonzola or something like that with pear, I’ll go for a fresh pear.

I’ve had very good luck poaching Bosc pears, which are always firm, in fact sometimes very firm and in need of long cooking. They have good flavor and really hold their shape. Slightly underripe Bartletts and Anjous are also good choices. Comice are generally too soft and juicy for poaching (but great raw with a slice of gorgonzola dolce).

Note: All my pear recipes are for pears served whole. If you like you can core them through the bottom with a melon baller. I do this sometimes for a fancy dinner party, but for casual dining I just leave them be.

Pears with Star Anise, Vanilla, and White Wine, Served with Fresh Goat Cheese

(Serves 6)

6 firm pears, peeled but with the stems left on
2 whole star anise
1/2 vanilla bean, split open
About 3/4 bottle dry white wine (something light and non-oaky is best; I used a Frascati)
3/4 cup sugar
1 long strip lemon peel
1 log of fresh goat cheese, about 11 ounces (both French and American brands can be excellent)
A few sprigs of fresh tarragon, the leaves lightly chopped

Place the pears in a pot wide enough to allow them to lie lengthwise without overlapping (wide is better than deep, since it allows you to poach in less liquid). Pour in the wine. Add the star anise, vanilla bean, sugar, and lemon peel. Add enough water to just cover the pears. Turn the heat to high and bring it to a boil. Now turn the heat down low and simmer, partially covered (partially covering the pot works best since it keeps in enough heat and steam for cooking but also allows some steam to escape, reducing the liquid and giving you a head start on making your syrup). Simmer until the pears are just tender when poked through (I poke them with a shish kebab skewer, since it doesn’t make big cuts). Cooking time varies, depending on the ripeness and variety of your pears, but I’ve found generally it takes 20 to 30 minutes (really hard pears may take longer). When tender, lift the pears from the liquid with a slotted spoon and place them, stems up, clustered together on a serving platter with a rim or a curve so it will hold syrup.

Reduce the liquid over high heat until you have a medium-bodied syrup (it’s ready when it starts to look thick and glossy and produces large bubbles on the surface). Let the syrup cool down for about 15 minutes, and then pour it over the pears, leaving the star anise and vanilla bean on the pears. (If you pour boiling hot syrup over the pears, it may become thin).

To serve, set up 6 little plates. Put two thick slices of fresh goat cheese on each one and sprinkle with the tarragon. Place the pears next to the cheese and drizzle each with a generous amount of syrup.

Pears Poached with Bay Leaf, Orange Peel, and Rosé Wine, Served with Mascarpone and Pine Nuts

(Serves 6)

6 firm pears, peeled, but with the stems left on
1 fresh bay leaf, preferably Turkish
2 long strips orange peel
1/4 cup Grand Marnier or another orange liqueur
1/2 bottle dry rosé wine (I used a Provençal rosé for this)
3/4 cup sugar
1 small container of mascarpone, at room temperature
1/2 cup pine nuts, lightly toasted

Place the pears in a wide pot so they’ll lie down more or less in one layer. Add the bay leaf, orange peel, Grand Marnier, rosé wine, and sugar. Add water if needed to just cover the pears. Bring this to a boil over high heat. Now turn the heat down low, partially cover the pot, and simmer until the pears are just tender when poked, usually 20 to 30 minutes, depending on their ripeness (really hard pears can take a long time; I usually find it necessary to test them a few times during cooking). Lift the pears from the liquid with a strainer spoon and place on a curved serving dish, stems up.

Boil the liquid down until you have a medium-thick syrup (when big bubbles start forming on the surface and it looks thick and glossy). Let the syrup sit and cool for about 15 minutes and then pour it over the pears, including the bay leaf and orange peel. Serve the pears on small plates with a dollop of mascarpone and a generous amount of syrup on top. Scatter the pine nuts on top.

Pears Poached with Thyme, Cassis, and Honey, Served with Young Pecorino Cheese

(Serves 6)

6 firm pears, peeled but with the stems left on
1/2 bottle light, dry white wine (I used a white Rhone)
1/2 cup cassis
1/2 cup sugar
1/4 cup honey (a not-too-strong wildflower variety like acacia works best)
3 large thyme sprigs, left whole, plus 3 sprigs, the leaves lightly chopped
2 strips lemon peel
1/2 pound young Pecorino cheese (a Pecorino Toscano or Fior di Sardegna would be a good choice)

Lay the pears down in a large, wide pot. Pour on the white wine and the cassis. Add the sugar, honey, the whole thyme sprigs, and the lemon peel. Bring to a boil over high heat. Now turn the heat down, partially cover the pot, and simmer until the pears are tender, turning them occasionally so they color evenly. They should take between 20 and 30 minutes, depending on their ripeness (test after 20 minutes by poking a skinny knife or shish kebab skewer into one to see if it’s soft). When tender, lift the pears from the liquid with a slotted spoon and place, stems up, on a serving platter (one with a curve or a rim that will contain the syrup).

Remove the thyme sprigs and then reduce the liquid over high heat until you’ve got a medium bodied syrup (when it’s glossy and big bubbles start forming on the surface). Add the chopped thyme leaves to the syrup and then let it cool for about 15 minutes before pouring it over the pears.

To serve, slice the Pecorino and lay two pieces on each plate. Place a pear next to the cheese and then spoon a generous amount of syrup over it.

Pears Poached with Rosé Wine and Cardamom, Served with Crème Fraiche

(Serves 6)

6 firm pears, peeled but with the stems left on
3/4 bottle dry rosé wine
1/2 teaspoon vanilla extract
3 cardamom pods, lightly crushed
A few thin slices of fresh ginger
3/4 cup sugar
A small container of crème fraîche

Lay the pears down in a wide pot. Pour the rosé wine over them. Add the vanilla, cardamom, ginger, and sugar. Add enough water to just cover the pears. Turn the heat to high and bring the liquid to a boil. Turn the heat down, partially cover the pot, and simmer until the pears are tender when poked through, between 20 and 30 minutes, depending on the firmness of the pears. Lift the pears from the liquid with a slotted spoon and arrange them, stems up, on a serving platter that will contain the syrup.

Boil down the liquid over high heat until you have a medium syrup (when it looks glossy and reduced and there are large bubbles all over the surface). Let the syrup cool for about 15 minutes, and then pour it over the pears. Serve the pears on small plates with a dollop of crème fraîche and plenty of syrup poured on top.

Pears Poached with Red Wine, Rosemary, and Black Pepper

(Serves 6)

6 pears, peeled but with the stems left on
3 small sprigs rosemary
3/4 bottle light, fruity red wine (a Beaujolais is good)
1/2 teaspoon vanilla extract
3/4 cup sugar
2 long strips of orange peel
A few grindings of freshly ground black pepper

Lay the pears down in a wide pot. Add the rosemary, red wine, orange peel, vanilla, and sugar. Bring to a boil over high heat. Turn the heat to low and simmer, partially covered, until the pears are tender when poked through, about 20 to 30 minutes. You should turn them once or twice so they color evenly (they should be a lovely crimson when they’re done). Lift the pears from the liquid onto a large curved or rimmed platter that can contain the syrup. Boil down the liquid over high heat until you have a medium-bodied syrup (when it starts to form large bubbles on the surface). Let the syrup sit and cool down for about 15 minutes. Pour the syrup over the pears.

To serve, place the pears upright in small bowls. Drizzle with plenty of syrup, and give each one a grinding of fresh black pepper.

Pears Poached with Marsala and Cinnamon, Served with Ricotta Cream and Pistachios

(Serves 6)

6 firm pears, peeled but with the stems left on
A cup of dry Marsala
About 1/4 cup rum
1/2 cinnamon stick
2 long strips lemon peel
3/4 cup sugar
Plus:
1 cup whole-milk ricotta
1/4 cup powdered sugar
1/2 cup shelled, unsalted whole pistachios

Place the pears in a wide pot so they lie down flat. Pour in the Marsala and rum and add the cinnamon stick, lemon peel, and sugar. Add water to just cover the pears. Bring to a boil over high heat. Now turn the heat to low, partially cover the pot, and simmer until tender when poked through, about 20 to 30 minutes, depending on the ripeness of the pears.

Lift the pears from the pot with a large strainer spoon and place then upright in a large, curved serving dish. Boil down the liquid over high heat until you have a medium thick syrup (when the surface looks glossy and large bubbles start forming all over). Let the syrup cool for about 15 minutes, and then pour it over the pears.

Place the ricotta and powdered sugar in the bowl of a food processor and pulse a few times until the mixture is smooth (if it seems overly thick, add a drizzle of milk and pulse again).

To serve, place the pears on small dessert plates. Give each a dollop of the ricotta cream and a generous drizzle of syrup. Top with a sprinkling of pistachios.