Recipes:
Ricotta with Black Olives and Thyme
Bruschetta
Avocado, Tomato, and Red Onion Salad with Anchovies
Skillet-Grilled Mussels with White Wine, Tarragon, and Shallots
Strawberries with White Wine and Vanilla
Ricotta with Black Olives and Thyme
Drain about a cup of whole-milk ricotta in a colander for a few minutes to get rid of excess water, and then put the ricotta in a shallow bowl. Scatter black olives all around it (Gaeta are a good choice), drizzle it with extra-virgin olive oil, and sprinkle with a mix of chopped flat-leaf parsley and a smaller amount of fresh thyme. Give everything a sprinkle of sea salt and a few grindings of fresh black pepper. Serve with bruschetta (see right below).
Bruschetta
Classic Italian bruschetta is simply grilled bread slices brushed with olive oil. It makes a great accompaniment for the mussels and also a very nice one for the ricotta. Cut half-inch-thick slices of good Italian bread and place them on a slow part of the grill. When grill marks appear, turn and grill the other side. Pull the slices from the grill and brush them with extra-virgin olive oil. Season with sea salt and a little freshly chopped parsley.
Avocado, Tomato, and Red Onion Salad with Anchovies
Line a serving platter with arugula leaves. Slice a ripe Hass avocado and arrange the slices on top of the arugula. Slice a large summer tomato and arrange the slices on top of the avocado. Scatter on a few anchovy fillets and a few very thin slices of red onion. In a small bowl mix together a dressing of extra-virgin olive oil and a squeeze of fresh lemon juice. Add a crushed garlic clove and a pinch of sea salt, and mix again for a few seconds. Pour this over the salad and serve right away.
Skillet-Grilled Mussels with White Wine, Tarragon, and Shallots
When I remember to bring a large skillet to the country with me, I like to fill it with clams or mussels and let them open up on the grill. It’s much easier than cooking the shellfish directly on the grill rack, where they wind up loosing juices, yet they still pick up a slight smoky taste. Choose a large straight-sided skillet (one with enough rim to catch all the mussel juices), and place it on the grill. Medium to high heat is best for this. Add a generous amount of olive oil to the skillet and let it heat for a few seconds. Add three sliced shallots and let them sauté for a minute, just to start them softening. Add 2 pounds of cleaned mussels (I always buy cultivated ones for this, so I don’t have to debeard them and worry too much about dirt; a brief soaking in a pot of cold water is all they need). Add about 2 tablespoons of unsalted butter and a small wineglass of dry white wine (Orvieto is a good wine to drink with mussels and also to cook them in). Stir the mussels around so they can heat evenly. When they start to steam, cover them loosely, either with a skillet lid or a piece of aluminum foil. Let them cook a few minutes more, then uncover and stir them around again. They should start opening after about 5 minutes. When they’ve all opened, take the skillet from the fire, and add a few large sprigs of chopped tarragon and a few sprigs of chopped flat-leaf parsley. Add a little sea salt and a more generous amount of black pepper. Give everything a toss. Ladle the mussels and broth directly from the skillet into serving bowls.
Strawberries with White Wine and Vanilla
Take about a cup of the white wine you’re drinking with the mussels, and pour it into a small saucepan. Place this on a hot spot on the fire. Open a small piece of vanilla bean lengthwise and drop it into the wine, along with about 2 tablespoons of sugar and a piece of lemon peel. Let this boil and reduce to about 1/4 cup of liquid. Take it off the fire and let it cool for a few minutes. Meanwhile hull, but otherwise leave whole, a pint of sweet local strawberries. Place the strawberries in a serving bowl, and pour the warm wine syrup on top. Toss a few times, and then let sit for about 15 minutes. You’ll now have strawberries with a sweet, bright-pink, winy syrup. Add a few mint leaves if you like.
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