Erica De Mane

Recipes:

Asparagus Soup with Basil-Almond Pesto
Asparagus with Tarragon-Caper Oil
Asparagus, Fennel, and Spring Onion Salad
Roasted Asparagus with Tomatoes and Gaeta Olives
Spaghetti with Asparagus, Leeks, Prosciutto, and Thyme
Asparagus with Parmigiano, Lemon, and Cream
Asparagus with Scallops, Pine Nuts, and Tomato Saffron Vinaigrette

In the spring, when asparagus is in season in Italy, everybody eats it in every way imaginable, constantly, at every meal, in restaurants, at home, until they’re sick to death of looking at it and smelling it. With their inborn respect for the flow of the seasons, Italian cooks feel a frantic rush to have seasonal produce as often and in as many ways as possible. This philosophy is, I believe, one of the reasons Italian cooking is so direct, so driven. It’s the working and reworking of a theme that leads Italian cooks to create.

In Italy you find cultivated asparagus like we have here, but the wild variety, dark green and skinny as reeds, is a springtime delicacy I’ve especially liked in Sicily. With its spicy taste, it makes an intense, elegant soup, and it’s heaven tossed with pasta. I’ve found that if I use my really fresh local asparagus and add a bit of lemon zest and a few sprigs of thyme, I taste a hint of the wild asparagus I remember from Sicily.

Many years ago I rented a house out in Riverhead, Long Island, with a bunch of friends. It was an old duck farm with dilapidated barns and a large vegetable garden tended by a caretaker we inherited from the owner. The caretaker was getting old, and after a few years we needed to deal with the garden ourselves. It quickly turned into an unruly mess, since we were more interested in drinking and trying on the old landlady’s clothes than in harvesting corn. But the asparagus patch reawoke every spring, despite our neglect, and it produced, I suppose because of our neglect, asparagus of wildly varied thicknesses and lengths, some squat and thick as a thumb, others long and reedy, reminiscent of the wild variety. What asparagus we were able to gather was not really presentable as a table vegetable, but it made a beautiful puréed soup, with a taste and color somewhat like that of wild asparagus. The patch got progressively more out of hand, and no one had a clue what to do about it. If I had been forty instead of in my twenties when I rented that house, the asparagus might have had a chance. I hope whoever’s there now has a more mature attitude toward their asparagus patch and has returned it to its former glory.

In New York our local asparagus becomes available around early May and lasts for about two months. A few months before that I start seeing very good California asparagus in the supermarket, and I always serve it at Easter dinner. (Most of the uniform-looking asparagus you find in winter is from Peru. I never buy it, not only because it has little taste, but because I don’t even start to think about asparagus until around April.) I go a little wild, in true Italian spirit, when the first local asparagus appears, reaching into my bag of Southern Italian flavors for inspiration. I have found, after cooking the vegetable every which way, that I’m starting to like a bolder approach to its flavoring, something I previously rejected, having viewed it as essentially delicate. In fact asparagus has a pronounced flavor. You know that from the way it surges through your body and dramatically releases its aroma as it exits.

I’m no longer averse to pairing asparagus with acidy tomatoes, black olives, capers, lemon zest, and strong herbs like marjoram, tarragon, and thyme. When I was a kid my family always put aside the olive oil and dressed asparagus with melted butter, thinking it deserved something finer than their everyday olive oil, but asparagus is a robust vegetable with a slight bitter edge, a flavor well loved in Italy and a perfect match for a fruity olive oil.

A note about peeling asparagus: Thick spears can have tough skins, and I’m lately in the habit of peeling them. I however never peel them completely, since doing so leaves them too floppy after cooking; I instead stripe them with three or four long scrapes of a vegetable peeler, leaving lines of dark green that look pretty and leave the stalks firm.

Here are a number of asparagus recipes I’ve been working on recently, ones that reflect my new approach to seasoning. (There are also other asparagus recipes on this Web site’s archives: Asparagus and Burrata Salad with Dandelions (Easter 2004). Asparagus with Poached Eggs and Olivata (Spring 2002). Cavatelli with Shrimp and Asparagus Purée; Asparagus Gratin with Parmigiano and Orange; Toasted Panini with Asparagus, Prosciutto, and Mozzarella (Spring 2001). Tagliatelle with Asparagus, Orange Zest, and Ramps; Spaghetti with Asparagus, Zucchini Blossoms, and Eggs (Spring 2000).)

Asparagus Soup with Basil-Almond Pesto

Basil is a perfect herb to go with asparagus. Both taste a little spicy and just a touch bitter. I love the way the cool pesto melts into the hot soup, blending the two flavors.

(Serves 4)

3 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
1 small Vidalia onion, thinly sliced
1 medium all-purpose potato, peeled and cut into small chunks
A pinch of cayenne
A pinch of sugar
3 dozen medium-size asparagus spears, the tough ends removed, the stalks peeled and roughly chopped
3 small thyme sprigs, the leaves chopped
Salt
A splash of dry vermouth
Zest of 1/2 lemon

For the pesto:

About a cup of loosely packed basil leaves
3 small thyme sprigs, the leaves only
1 small garlic clove, peeled
1/2 cup whole, blanched almonds
1/3 cup extra-virgin olive oil
Salt

First, make the soup. In a large soup pot, heat 2 tablespoons of olive oil over medium flame. Add the onion, potato, and a pinch each of cayenne and sugar. Sauté until the onion is soft and fragrant, about 6 minutes. Add the asparagus, thyme, and a little salt. Sauté a few minutes more, just until the asparagus is coated with flavor and is starting to loose its rawness. Add the splash of vermouth and let it boil away. Add 3 cups of warm water, and bring the soup to a boil. Continue to cook at a medium boil until both the asparagus and potato are tender, about 10 to 12 minutes. Add the lemon zest.

Purée the soup in a food processor and pour it back into a pot. Stir in a tablespoon of fresh olive oil. If the soup is too thick, add a little more water.

Next make the pesto. Bring a small pot of water to a boil. Add the basil and thyme and blanch for about 30 seconds. Scoop the herbs from the pot and run them under cold water. This will set their color so the pesto doesn’t turn murky as it sits. Squeeze as much water from the herbs as you can. Put the almonds and garlic in the bowl of a food processor and grind to a rough chop. Add the herbs and the olive oil and a generous pinch of salt and pulse several times, just until you have a not-too-smooth paste. Transfer to a small bowl.

When you’re ready to serve, reheat the soup gently, if necessary, and ladle it into soup bowls. Top each bowl with a small dollop of pesto.

Asparagus with Tarragon-Caper Oil

I often boil or steam asparagus and dress it with an oil I’ve flavored. Here I mix orange zest (a good flavor marriage for asparagus), capers, and tarragon into one of my best olive oils, and then I gently heat everything together until the oil is infused with flavor.

(Serves 4 as a first course or side dish)

2 dozen thick asparagus spears, the tough ends trimmed and the stalks peeled
1/3 cup fruity extra-virgin olive oil (such as Ravida)
1 garlic clove, very thinly sliced
Zest of 1 small orange
Salt
Freshly ground black pepper
A handful of salt-packed capers, soaked in cool water for about 1/2 hour, rinsed, and drained
5 small tarragon sprigs, the leaves lightly chopped

Bring a large pot of water to a boil, and blanch the asparagus in the boiling water until tender, about 3 to 4 minutes depending on its thickness. Scoop it out with a large strainer spoon and drain it on paper towels. Lay it out on a serving platter and sprinkle it lightly with salt and black pepper.

Pour the olive oil into a small saucepan. Add the garlic and orange zest. Turn the heat to low and gently warm the olive oil until it just starts to boil at the edges, about 4 minutes.

Turn the heat off under the olive oil and add the capers, the tarragon, and a pinch of salt. Spoon the hot oil over the asparagus. Serve right away.

Asparagus, Fennel, and Spring Onion Salad

Asparagus and bulb fennel, as I only recently discovered, go very well together. I first improvised this salad in early April this year, before local asparagus was available in New York. I had a yearning for spring tastes, so I made this with California asparagus and a juicy spring onion I found at my supermarket. It raised my spirits.

(Serves 4)

A dozen thick asparagus spears, trimmed and peeled
2 small fennel bulbs, trimmed and very thinly sliced
1 small spring onion, very thinly sliced (or about 3 scallions, thinly sliced)
A handful of basil leaves, lightly chopped
A medium-size bunch of arugula, stemmed
A small chunk of Pecorino cheese (one that isn’t too sharp and aged is best)

For the dressing:

Zest and juice of 1/2 lemon
About 3 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil (I use a good estate oil for this)
A pinch of sugar
A pinch of grated nutmeg
Salt
Freshly ground black pepper

Bring a large pot of water to a boil. Blanch the asparagus for about 4 minutes, or just until it is tender (when it starts smelling like asparagus, it’s usually cooked enough). Drain it into a colander and run cold water over it to preserve its green color (or, if you really want, put it in a large pot of cold water with ice cubes floating in it, like they do in restaurants). Drain the asparagus and slice it on an angle into approximately 1-inch pieces.

Place the asparagus, sliced fennel, sliced onion, and basil in a medium salad bowl. Set up four salad plates, and arrange a small bunch of arugula leaves on each one.

In a small bowl, mix together all the ingredients for the dressing. Taste for a good balance of lemon and olive oil, adjusting if necessary. Pour the dressing over the asparagus and toss gently. Place the asparagus salad on the arugula on the four plates. Top each salad with a few shavings of Pecorino, and serve right away.

Roasted Asparagus with Tomatoes and Gaeta Olives

When you roast asparagus its flavor intensifies, and it can stand up to a bold sauce like this one, which is made with tomatoes, black olives, and garlic. It’s excellent served with leg of lamb, yielding a Mediterranean take on a classic springtime dinner.

(Serves 4 or 5 as a first course or side dish)

2 dozen fairly thick asparagus spears, the tough ends trimmed and the stalks peeled
Extra-virgin olive oil
Salt
Freshly ground black pepper
1 pint sweet cherry tomatoes, stemmed
1 garlic clove, very thinly sliced
A splash of sweet Marsala wine
A small handful of Gaeta olives, pitted and cut in half
3 small sprigs marjoram, the leaves lightly chopped, plus a few whole sprigs for garnish

Preheat the oven to 450 degrees.

Lay the asparagus out on a sheet pan, and drizzle it with enough olive oil to coat it well. Sprinkle on some salt and black pepper, and toss it with your fingers until all the seasonings are well distributed. Roast the asparagus until it is tender, fragrant, and just starting to brown a bit at the tips, about 15 minutes.

While the asparagus is roasting, heat 2 tablespoons of olive oil in a large skillet over high heat. When the skillet is hot, add the cherry tomatoes and sear them, shaking them around some, until they just start to burst, about 4 minutes. Add the garlic and continue cooking about a minute longer. Add the Marsala and let it boil away. Take the skillet from the heat and add the olives, marjoram, a little salt, and a few grindings of black pepper. Toss well.

Place the asparagus on a warmed serving platter and spoon the tomato sauce across the middle of it. Garnish with the marjoram sprigs. Serve hot.

Spaghetti with Asparagus, Leeks, Prosciutto, and Thyme

Asparagus and prosciutto make a beautiful flavor combination. The thyme and leeks round out the dish, and it ends up with surprising depth of flavor for so few ingredients.

(Serves 5 or 6 as a first course or 4 as a main course)

Salt
About 20 thick asparagus spears, trimmed and peeled
1 pound spaghetti
Extra-virgin olive oil
4 leeks, well cleaned, trimmed, and cut into thin rounds, using the white part and only the tenderest green
A tiny pinch of ground allspice
Freshly ground black pepper
4 large sprigs thyme, the leaves lightly chopped
A splash of dry white wine
1/2 cup chicken broth (low-salt canned is fine)
4 thin slices of prosciutto, well chopped
6 large sprigs of flat leaf parsley, the leaves lightly chopped
A chunk of Pecorino cheese for grating (a mild Sardinian one is best; Pecorino Romano is a bit strong for this dish)

Bring a large pot of water, enough to cook the spaghetti in, to a boil. Don’t put in the spaghetti. Add a generous amount of salt and drop in the asparagus. Blanch it for about 2 minutes, just to take the raw edge off it. Scoop it from the water into a colander with a large strainer spoon. Run cold water over it to stop the cooking and to bring up its color. Drain well and then slice it on an angle into approximately 1/4-inch sections.

Bring the water back to a boil.

Heat 3 tablespoons of olive oil in a large skillet over medium heat. Add the leeks. Season with the allspice, black pepper, and a pinch of salt, and sauté until the leeks are tender and soft, about 6 minutes.

Put the spaghetti in the boiling water.

Add the asparagus and the thyme to the skillet with the leeks, and sauté a minute longer, just to coat it all with flavor. Add a splash of white wine and let it boil away. Add the chicken broth and simmer, uncovered, for about 5 minutes, to blend all the flavors and to finish cooking the asparagus.

When the spaghetti is al dente, drain it, saving about 1/2 cup of the cooking water. Transfer the spaghetti to a large, warmed serving bowl. Add a generous drizzle of olive oil, the chopped prosciutto, and parsley, and give it a toss. Add the asparagus-and-leeks mixture and toss again, adding a tiny bit of the spaghetti cooking water, if needed to loosen it all up. Taste for seasoning, adding a bit more salt and a few gratings of fresh black pepper. Grate on a tablespoon or so of the Pecorino, give the spaghetti a final toss, and bring it to the table with the remaining chunk of Pecorino for anyone who would like more cheese.

Asparagus with Parmigiano, Lemon, and Cream

This lemon, Parmigiano, and cream sauce was a taste I first encountered several years ago in Rome, where it was served to me tossed with fettuccine; it’s an intense and refreshing sauce that I’ve discovered tastes wonderful drizzled over asparagus.

(Serves 4 as a first course or a side dish)

About 2 dozen asparagus spears, the tough ends trimmed and the stalks peeled
3/4 cup heavy cream
Zest of 2 lemons
1/2 cup grated Parmigiano Reggiano cheese, plus a tablespoon more
Salt
Freshly ground black pepper

Bring a large pot of water to a boil. Blanch the asparagus until it’s just tender, about 3 minutes. Using tongs, pull it from the water, drain it well in a colander, and pat it dry. Lay it out in a shallow baking dish.

In a small saucepan, heat the cream at a medium temperature until it starts to boil. Lower the heat and simmer until it is reduced by about 1/2. Add the lemon zest and simmer about 3 minutes longer.

Turn on the broiler. Turn the heat off under the cream and add the Parmigiano, stirring well to blend it. Add a pinch of salt and freshly ground black pepper. Pour the sauce over the asparagus, and sprinkle the tablespoon of Parmigiano evenly over the top. Broil about 5 inches from the heat source until the top is very lightly browned, about 3 minutes. Serve hot.

Asparagus with Scallops, Pine Nuts, and Tomato Saffron Vinaigrette

Asparagus makes a delicious bed for seafood. Here I lay on it sautéed scallops,but I could have used cooked shrimp, a thin piece of poached salmon, or quick-sautéed calamari sliced into rings. Since the asparagus and seafood both have strong, distinct flavor, I dress the dish with a more complicated vinaigrette than I would choose for a plain green salad.

(Serves 4 as a first course, lunch, or light supper)

20 thin asparagus spears, the tough ends trimmed and the stalks peeled if the skin is tough
2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
12 large sea scallops, the side muscle removed
Salt
Freshly ground black pepper
A pinch of cayenne
A large bunch of arugula, stemmed, washed, and dried
A handful of basil leaves, cut into thin strips, plus 4 nice-looking whole sprigs for garnish
A large handful of pine nuts, lightly toasted

For the vinaigrette:

A pinch of saffron threads (about 5 threads)
1/4 cup dry white wine
2 canned plum tomatoes, drained
1/4 teaspoon sherry vinegar
A pinch of sugar
Salt
Freshly ground black pepper
4 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil

First make the vinaigrette: If the saffron is moist, place it in a small skillet over very low heat for a few seconds to dry it out. Grind the saffron to a powder in a mortar and pestle. In a small saucepan, reduce the white wine and saffron over medium heat until about two tablespoons of liquid remain. Put the tomatoes in the bowl of a food processor and pulse until almost smooth (still a bit chunky). Add the vinegar, the reduced wine-and-saffron mixture, a pinch of sugar, salt, black pepper, and the olive oil, and pulse a few times to blend well. Set aside (the vinaigrette will thicken slightly as it stands).

Line four salad palates with the arugula leaves.

Bring a large pot of water to a boil. Drop in the asparagus and blanch it until tender, about 4 minutes (depending on its thickness). Scoop the asparagus out with a large strainer spoon, and place it in a colander. Drain well. Place 5 asparagus spears on top of the arugula on each plate.

Heat two tablespoons of olive oil in a large skillet over high heat. Dry the scallops well and season them with salt, black pepper, and a pinch of cayenne. When the skillet is almost smoking, add the scallops, leaving some space between them. Let them sear, without moving them at all, until they’re nicely browned, about 4 minutes. By this time they should be cooked through. If their tops seem raw, turn the heat down and continue cooking without turning until the tops feel firmer but still look slightly translucent, probably about another minute. Place three scallops, brown side up, on the asparagus on each plate. Scatter on the basil and pine nuts and drizzle each plate with some vinaigrette. Garnish with the basil sprigs. Serve right away.