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Archive for June, 2009

A poster for La Mortadella, the 1971 film directed by Carlo Ponti and, by the way, written by Ring Lardner, Jr. Recipe: Warm Chickpea Salad with Mortadella and Broccoli Rabe Summer is cranking into gear at the New York Greenmarkets, with lots of big, scary, leafy greens on display, things that look dark and indestructible. [...]

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Women with Fish

Christ in the House of Martha and Mary, Diego Velázquez, 1620.

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Maria Grammatico in her pastry shop, in Erice, Sicily. In all of Italy, Sicily, for me, has the best food. It just makes sense to me all around—the ingredients, the palate, the preparation. I suppose being part Sicilian myself, I’m predisposed to favor Sicilian flavor, and maybe also to be infatuated with Louis Prima. But [...]

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Still Life with Zucchini, Giacomo Ceruti, 1700-1768. Recipe: Spaghetti with Zucchini, Anchovy, and Garlic Toasted Almonds Finally it’s zucchini time at the New York City Greenmarkets. Big deal, you say? Well, I know what you mean. Zucchini is not exactly the most exciting vegetable. But since it’s the first of the real summer stuff to [...]

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Still Life with Bread, by Luis Melendez,  1715-1780. To all of you enthusiastic cooks who attended my stale bread class this week (and to any of my readers who just love the idea of finding great ways to use leftover bread), here’s the recipe for the orange cake I made for that class. And for [...]

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Women with Fish

Women with a big octopus, Northern California, year unknown.

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Recipe: Shrimp Cocktail with Jalapeño Fennel Vinaigrette My love of the American shrimp cocktail remains strong. It’s a clunky but vibrant dish, of boiled shrimp, hopefully not too boiled, dipped in an indescribable red sauce, made primarily from ketchup, horseradish, and Worcestershire sauce. Thinking of it brings back a flood of memories, mostly good ones, [...]

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