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Archive for January, 2009

Lunch at Gottino

Posted in Restaurant and Product Reviews on January 31, 2009 | 1 Comment »

Gottino’s charming storage cellar. I finally got to Gottino. Even though it’s one of the most talked about, best reviewed Italian wine bars in this restaurant-stuffed city, and is only a few blocks from my apartment, I hadn’t been able to bring myself to make it through the door. Gottino has been open for a [...]

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Winter Is for Supermarket Escarole

Posted in Skinny Guinea on January 26, 2009 | 2 Comments »

A  fairly good-looking batch of  supermarket  escarole. Recipe: Cavatelli with Shrimp, Escarole, and Parmigiano Breadcrumbs Oh, where, oh where, has my Greenmarket gone? Oh, when will this long winter end? Yesterday I found myself pottering around in the chicory-related bins at my local supermarket, looking for something interesting to turn into dinner. Like many Italian-minded [...]

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Chicken Soup with Red Italian Rice

Posted in Skinny Guinea on January 24, 2009 | Leave a Comment »

Recipe: Chicken Soup with Red Italian Rice I love colored rice. I’ve cooked with the firm, pitch-black Forbidden rice from China and the deep red, short-grained variety from the French Carmargue. These are startlingly beautiful foods with deep flavors. Italian colored rice didn’t figure into my cooking until very recently, I think because I tend [...]

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Spare Ribs with Sicilian Flavors

Posted in Skinny Guinea on January 21, 2009 | Leave a Comment »

Recipe: Pork Spare Ribs Braised with White Wine, Rosemary, Cinnamon, and Pine Nuts There are many things I don’t understand about myself, but one thing I do know is that I will always find fulfillment cooking with the flavors of Southern Italy, the flavors of my heritage. New York is not Southern Italy, despite the [...]

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The Italian-American Water Cure

Posted in Skinny Guinea on January 16, 2009 | 1 Comment »

Taking the waters in Fellini’s 8½ (notice  Marcello, right, with his cigarette—so perfect in a spa and such a nice pairing with the gallons of mineral water he has to drink). Recipe: The Fizzerino A friend of mine who wants to whittle down her stomach fat has just switched from vino to vodka with a [...]

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Sformato for Winter: A Neat Package

Posted in Skinny Guinea on January 13, 2009 | Leave a Comment »

My sformato in its mold. Recipe: Sformato of Ricotta with Mint, Parmigiano, and Lemon When cold weather comes I begin cooking food in neat packages. My tart rings, gratin dishes, and casseroles get pulled out and used to create dishes with boundaries. Those dishes somehow seem more attuned to winter than loose food, nonchalantly chopped [...]

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Winter Pizza

Posted in Skinny Guinea on January 9, 2009 | Leave a Comment »

Recipe: Pizza with Rosemary Onions and Fontina Valle d’Aosta I never used to like making pizza at home, mainly because it seemed so difficult. This, I’m happy to say, is no longer true. I’ve overcome my resistance, and I now turn out a fairly authentic, crusty, pully pizza that I’m proud of. But I’ve learned [...]

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Family Meal

Posted in Skinny Guinea on January 5, 2009 | 2 Comments »

Recipe: Chicken alla Cacciatora with Black Olives, Crème Fraîche, and Thyme After a string of holidays, I want nothing more than to dispense with the menu planning and just wing it, creating meals out of whatever is in the house, in true improvisational fashion. This type of cooking always reminds me of what it was [...]

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Happy New Year to You and Your Italian Kitchen

Posted in 2009 on January 1, 2009 | Leave a Comment »

Dom DeLuise, a keeper of the flame. I’d like to propose a toast to every Italian-American home cook, chef, and gourmand who works hard each day keeping Italian cooking fresh and vibrant  in the U.S.A.  Keep creating the dishes and the amazing aromas that allow our beautiful culinary heritage to thrive here in such a [...]

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