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Archive for August, 2008

Summer Tomato Sauce

Keeping it fresh. Recipe: Summer Tomato Sauce with Thyme and Marjoram Your goal here is to cook up a sauce of summer tomatoes that fully captures their incredible fresh taste. Believe it or not, it’s easy (chef’s always say that—doesn’t it infuriate you?). In this case it’s actually true, but first you should know a [...]

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Recipe: Tomato and Cantaloupe Salad with Purslane At summer’s end I find myself a bit frantic, trying to buy and cook as much produce as possible, often combining lots of things in one dish, just to get to taste them all once more. Occasionally I create an incongruous mess, but most often things come out [...]

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Pier Paolo Pasolini and Maria Callas celebrate the completion of Medea. Recipe: Fragolimone I can tell a lot about my general sense of well-being by the way I react to the end of summer. If I look at it as offering a new start, then everything is relatively good. But if I view it with [...]

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Recipe: Chilled Peach Soup with Basil and Peperoncino Pesto Once, when I was in high school, a friend’s mother invited a bunch of kids over for her son’s birthday, and instead of the usual summer barbecue/food fight/pothead afternoon, it turned out to be a formal sit-down luncheon. We were very uncomfortable. She was Austrian, and [...]

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A view of the Spanish Steps in Rome from Keats’s day room. Recipe: Spaghetti with Anchovies, Summer Tomatoes, and Walnuts When John Keats lay fading away on his day bed in the end throes of tuberculosis, wanly staring out at the Spanish steps, his doctor decided on a diet of one anchovy a day—instead of [...]

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My pomodoro crudo, with Pantelleria capers and rosemary. Recipe: Crisp Catfish and Pomodoro Crudo with Sicilian Capers and Rosemary Capers have an astonishing affinity for tomatoes. But not any tomatoes, and not any old capers. I’ve got to have warm, juicy, New York–vicinity tomatoes right now, and for my capers my mind travels far, to [...]

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A Grill for San Lorenzo

The iron stove that allegedly grilled San Lorenzo, on view in Rome. Recipe: Agnello alla Scottadito with Fresh Mint and Garlic Vinaigrette It’s not a huge holiday in America, but lest we forget, August 10 is the feast day of San Lorenzo of Rome. Born in 225, died August 10, 258, in the beautiful but [...]

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