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Archive for February, 2009

Recipe: Calamari and Shrimp Salad with Celery and Fennel La Saraghina haunts my dreams, Fellini’s wild mistress of the Adriatic, tormentor of young boys, clumsy enticing dancer. I see her pumping that Tasmanian devil body on the sand, her dark smudged eyes rolling around in her flat face, black hair matted and sticking up straight [...]

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The Ricotta Eaters, by Vincenzo Campi, 1585 (the guy on the left looks a little ill). Recipe: Crespelle with Ricotta and Walnut Pesto At some point during my teenage years, my mother began making manicotti using crespelle, the Italian version of crepes, instead of the more traditional pasta sheets. I took an immediate love to [...]

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Veal and Peppers Revisited

Dick De Mane (center) and his buddies, out on the town. Recipe: Braised Veal with Sweet Peppers and Capers One of my father’s favorite dishes was veal and peppers, a Neapolitan-American plate of slow simmered veal with bell peppers, tomatoes, a little wine, a sprinkling of hot pepper flakes, a handful of parsley. That’s about [...]

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The amazing art at Ristorante Volare on West 4th Street. About a dozen times in the last year I’ve either called Dell’anima to make a reservation (5 p.m. or 11 p.m. offered) or walked by thinking I could just slip in, only to be disgusted by the pushing, the crowding, and the noise level at [...]

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Anna Magnani, with a romantic dog friend. Recipe: Coda alla Vaccinara Our Lady of the Eternal City, Anna Magnani, is a woman I check in with frequently, even though she is dead. I value her opinion so much, her not being flesh-and-blood live is hardly an obstacle (actually she has much more time these days). [...]

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Paccheri with Eggplant

Recipe: Paccheri with Eggplant, Capers, Mint, and Ricotta Salata I don’t often cook eggplant in winter. It’s usually withered and seedy, and it just makes me long for summer, when I can find ten different eggplant varieties at my Greenmarket. Eggplant is a strikingly beautiful vegetable. I can’t get over its varying shades of purple, [...]

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February 5 is the feast day of Saint Agatha, patron saint of Catania, Sicily. Now, that may not mean a hell of a lot to most people, but to many Italian-Americans (who, of course, are mostly Southern Italian) there is the exciting little memory of eating their first Saint Agatha’s nipple, the breast-shaped pastry that [...]

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