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Archive for the ‘2007’ Category

Essence of anchovy in a bottle. If you like anchovies (and who reading my site doesn’t?), you’ll love the elegant, stinky syrup called colatura. It’s made from the runoff from the anchovy salting process, which I guess doesn’t sound particularly elegant, but believe me this stuff is suave. When anchovies are salted for curing, they’re [...]

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A lost lasagna revived. Recipe: Sweet Christmas Eve Lasagna Dear Erica, My father was born in Barile, Provincia di Potenza, Basilicata. His father was from Bari. My grandmother and my mother always made their lasagna with eggs mixed in the ricotta, and with sugar and cinnamon. We ate this with the meatballs layered in between, [...]

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I had the good fortune to be able visit Natalia Ravidà and several generations of her family several years ago when I took a trip to Sicily. I was a huge fan of her family’s estate-bottled extra-virgin olive oil. The exquisite, lush oil had been produced on the family estate, in Menfi, in southwestern Sicily, [...]

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Cavicionetti all’Abruzzese. Recipe: Cavicionetti all’Abruzzese Dear Erica, I am a big fan of your books, and having discovered your wonderful “Lost Recipes Found” feature, I decided to see if you could help me out. I spent a few years in Abruzzo about 14 years ago. Around Christmas, I recall, a friend of my host mother [...]

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Fresh cardoons for Felice’s lost recipe. Recipes: Pumpkin Agro Dolce with Vinegar and Mint Batter Fried Cardoons with Anchovy Tomato Salsa Hi Erica, I am second-generation Italian, my maternal grandparents coming from the hills of San Fratello in Sicily and my paternal ones from the mainland around Naples. My mom’s mother (I’m her namesake) was [...]

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Trippa alla Romana at Il Posto Accanto. Recipe: Tripe with Rosemary and Cacio di Roma I love tripe Italian-style, with wine, tomatoes, herbs, and a topping of pecorino cheese. I love the taste of tripe in general; it’s really unlike any other food, in looks, for sure, but also in flavor. To me it makes [...]

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Orange and herring salad with almonds and frisée. Recipe: Orange and Herring Salad with Almonds and Frisée I recently came across a reference to a recipe called “Mackerel, Almond, Orange, and Fennel.” The combination sounds great, but I can’t find an actual recipe. Do you have one? Herbert D. When I first read this intriguing [...]

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My new take on a classic I learned years ago. Recipe: Eggplant and Ricotta Gratinée Many of the recipes I attempted when I first got serious about cooking many moons ago have left me with the sweetest nostalgia, even more than some of my beloved childhood dishes. It must be because they are foods I [...]

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Fresh summer ingredients for Pete’s ciambotta. Recipe: Ciambotta with Fried Capers Dear Erica, I love your “Lost Recipes Found” feature, and for months I’ve been trying to think of an old family recipe that nobody seems to know how to make anymore. With the eggplants, zucchini, and tomatoes coming up from my next-door neighbor’s garden [...]

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Linguine with Clam Sauce, My Way

Spaghetti with cockles, tomatoes, fresh chilies, and sherry. Recipe: Spaghetti with Cockles, Tomatoes, Fresh Chilies, and Sherry. Linguine with clam sauce is a classic Southern Italian pasta that evokes two contrasting basic memories for me. Primarily it was a Christmas Eve dish my mother often made as part of our traditional, if pared down, fish [...]

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