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Archive for the ‘2006’ Category

My good-luck pizza, ready to go into the oven. Recipe: Pizza in the Round with Pancetta, Onion, and Buffalo Mozzarella Every year on New Year’s Day I struggle with my superstitions and try to put together some sort of good-luck meal. As a kid I always heard from my family that we were supposed to [...]

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Greg’s long-lost pasta dish. Recipe: Penne with Broccoli, Shallots, and Emmenthaler Dear Erica: When I was in Italy I had a tremendous dish, a penne with broccoli sauce. The sauce had no cream, jus an intense broccoli flavor, a little olive oil, and, I assume, some butter. The trick is how to get the intense [...]

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Braised tuna with marsala, mint, and black olives. Recipes: Winter Panzanella with Burst Cherry Tomatoes, Black Olives, and Caciocavallo Braised Tuna with Marsala, Mint, and Black Olives My black olive craving has really taken hold in this winter. At this time in my life just about everything tastes better with a few black olives thrown [...]

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Liti’s missing recipe. Recipe: Cinnamon and Ricotta Ravioli with Basil Dear Erica, Since you’ve started your “Lost Recipes Found” feature, I can’t stop thinking about the cinnamon and ricotta ravioli Mom has told us about but never actually cooked for us, mainly because she doesn’t know how to make it. I thought this would be [...]

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My Winter Fruit of Choice

Olives at the market in Nice. Recipe: Papardelle with Black Olives, Lemon, and Cream I sometimes take naps on Saturday afternoons, and when I wake up from one I always seem to have a food craving. In the warm weather months I want something sweet, like a caramel or a swig of maple syrup; in [...]

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Joseph’s mother’s lagane e ceci. Recipe: Lagane e ceci Dear Erica, I’m very happy to read about your new website feature, “Lost Recipes Found.” One recipe in particular, something my mother made often, I really, really miss. It’s a pasta with chickpeas in a white sauce of some sort, and no tomatoes. I’ve tried making [...]

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For the Love of Chicken Livers

Uncooked chicken livers and sage. Recipes: Lasgnette with Chicken Livers, Rosemary, and Leeks Chicken Liver Crostini with Fig and Fennel Salad Every fall I start thinking about how I’d love a nice plate of hot chicken livers. Creepy craving, you might think, but it’s one of my weather-and-food associations that surface every year with the [...]

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The Luxury of Time

Squashes at the Greenmarket in early autumn. Recipes: Pàppa al Pomodoro with Marjoram Pesto Fall Minestrone with Veal Shank, Pumpkin, and Gremolata At some point during the first few months of my first restaurant cooking job, I was assigned to make the soup. Every day the chef would dump a load of vegetables at my [...]

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My Little Italian Restaurant

Buddy examines a cauliflower torta. Recipes: Pappardelle with Cauliflower, Saucisson à l’Ail, and Basil Cauliflower Sautéed with Anchovies, Parsley, and Bread Crumbs Cauliflower Torta with Pecorino and Pine Nuts I am ill-equipped organizationally to run a restaurant, at least the type of restaurant that, in this country, could turn a profit-or stay in business for [...]

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Lemon Verbena

Lemon verbena at the Union Square Greenmarket. Recipes: Roasted Peppers with Lemon Verbena Olive Oil Grilled Chicken with Lemon Verbena, Green Olives, and Summer Garlic Peaches with Lemon Verbena and White Wine Do yourself a favor and bring a big bunch of fresh lemon verbena into your kitchen. This is an herb that smells and [...]

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